Just go, C!
I'm Charity, a proud auntie, wine lover, semi-nerd, and dreamer who can't stay in one place for too long.
My first six weeks in Peru were a little rough, to be honest. I love to teach, so I appreciated having the opportunity to do that again, but I just did not jive with the city and area I was in. The neighborhoods were run-down and littered, teeming with honking taxis and stray dogs. I saw and dealt with plenty of that when I was living in SE Asia, so I'm not sure what the deal was exactly, but from the day I got there, I wasn't feeling it. The six weeks went by very slowly and were prolonged further by my bouts with some kind of food-related illness and one of the nastiest colds I've ever battled. Fortunately, I had a month back home to look forward to after the six weeks was up. I thoroughly enjoyed spending the holidays with my loved ones, and it gave me a much-needed repose. That month went by very quickly, as it tends to do, and I have to admit that I was not thrilled about getting back on the plane to go back to Peru. I struggled with a lot of guilt about that feeling, too. For crying out loud, the opportunity to go ANYWHERE outside the U.S., let alone one of the most culturally-rich and beautiful tourist haven countries in the world, is an opportunity that few are able to relish in their lifetimes. Who did I think I was to not be jumping up and down in feverish excitement at the mere prospect? Thankfully, Lima has rescued me from the depths of my guilt-ridden apprehension. This city has surpassed my expectations and is honestly one of my favorite cities that I've visited to date. Talk about a 180! Lima seems to have a little of everything for everyone. For me, it has historical significance, world-class museums, glorious architecture, an enormous selection of cuisines, ease of transportation (as in, Uber everywhere), fantastic weather, a hip art scene, and fascinating local cultures. It checks off pretty much every box on my "What Makes a City Awesome" checklist. The only things I'm not too crazy about are the traffic and noise. Lima is a very crowded (but very lively!) city. In this blog post, I'll share with you some of my favorite spots. Many travelers come to Lima for a quick day or two on the way to Cusco/Machu Picchu, so I'll include a couple of suggested itineraries for people who are here for shorter stays. MUSEO LARCO This museum is my favorite of the ones I've visited in Lima. It has a massive collection of pre-Columbian art, including ceramics, metals, jewelry, and textiles. In my history classes, we really only touched on the Inca civilization, and even then, learned very little about them. I am constantly amazed at how many ancient civilizations preceded the Incas - and thrived for centuries more - and how little they are discussed in modern times. Among my favorite pieces were the facial adornments, the quipus which were the ancient way of keeping records, and the funerary bundles used to bury the dead and send them off in style into the next life. Museo Larco is even more well-known for its collection of erotic pottery from the Moche culture. The Moche people were not shy when it came to their sexuality; they honored it in their ceramic works, displaying varying sexual acts and positions between humans, animals, gods, and even the dead. Another incredibly unique feature about this museum is its open storage rooms which allow public access to view the enormous collections of ceramics not housed in the main museum. As if all of this weren't already enough to appreciate, the museum also has an on-site restaurant surrounded by well-maintained beautiful gardens. A glass of wine following the exhaustingly stimulating tour through the museum was a real treat. Other museums well worth mentioning: MUSEO DE ARTE DE LIMA (MALI) This museum rivals any other renowned art museum out there, as far as I'm concerned. It, too, has an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art up through modern contemporary. I personally loved the furniture pieces on display from as early as the 16th century. Check out any temporary exhibits they might have, as well - I was there while they were showcasing a Yoko Ono exhibit, but sadly, most of it was in Spanish which was a little disappointing. (Yet another reason to keep up on my Spanish lessons!) Outside the museum is a beautiful park where you'll see a lot of locals hanging out, especially on weekends, and when it's hot out (which has been most of the time, lately). The museum also has an attached café if you care to grab a coffee and a quick snack while you're there. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY, ANTHROPOLOGY, AND HISTORY OF PERU If I had to pick between this one and Museo Larco, I would pick Larco, but if you have a little extra time in your schedule, this one is still very much worth visiting. It also has a nice collection of ceramics and a few more funerary exhibits, and I preferred the textile exhibits of this museum over Larco's. There is also a nice courtyard in the center of the museum if you'd like to rest between exhibits and take it all in. Grab a bite to eat and a Pisco Sour (Peru's national drink) at the nearby Antigua Taberna Queirolo restaurant while you're at it. Their Lomo Saltado is fantastic. MUSEO MATE - MARIO TESTINO MUSEUM Mario Testino is a world-famous Peruvian photographer who enjoys capturing beautiful celebrities in the more laid-back moments of their opulent lifestyles. He also has captured some beautiful photos of indigenous Peruvians. If you're into photography at all, this place is definitely worth visiting. The museum is also popular for its beautiful and emotional tributary exhibit to Lady Diana. THE BARRANCO DISTRICT Hands down, my favorite neighborhood of Lima. You'll read about it online as the "bohemian" art district of Lima, and while it does live up to that description, the "cool" it exudes feels effortless. It doesn't discriminate, either - local Peruvians from different wealth classes, the wealthier expats, tourists, families, etc. all have seem to have found a place in Barranco. If and when you visit Lima, I would recommend devoting a few hours (or more) to simply walking around. Some of the best things I found and saw were completely by accident. Barranco is quite famous for it street art and murals, and you generally don't have to walk too far to find them. Some of the more popular ones are near the Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros). The bridge itself isn't anything very exciting, in my opinion, but there is a local superstition that if you make a wish, hold your breath, and walk all the way across without needing to breathe, then your wish will come true. I tried and failed, so apparently I am doomed to a life of despair, but at least I got some sweet photos of murals! I have uploaded a ton of the mural pictures to my Instagram account, so if you're not already following me and would like to check those out, find me @just_go_c PLAZA DE ARMAS (OR PLAZA MAYOR) Many cities in South America (and other Latin-American cities) have a Plaza de Armas. It often served historically as a gathering place for citizens, an area to demonstrate and protest, an area to show off military resources, and a place for government officials and the elite to reside. Lima's Plaza de Armas is where the city of Lima officially began. Just being in the square, it feels like you are being transported to another time in history. The architecture is jaw-dropping. Horse-drawn carriages take tourists around the square to take it all in. This is where a lot of the city or national official celebrations happen, as well. I was fortunate enough to be in the square (by complete accident, once again) while a parade was happening in celebration of the Feast of the Virgin of Candelaria. It was so colorful and energetic; what a treat to be there and see everyone's costumes and watch them dance to their traditional music! This is a great place to observe and people-watch; and of course, take a ton of photos. If you're so inclined, it would be worth taking a tour of the Cathedral of Lima, as well. This cathedral houses what's left of Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador famous (or infamous) for putting an end to the Inca empire. I would also encourage you to step away from the main square and walk around the surrounding streets, as well. And, don't forget to look up - the balconies on some of the older buildings are really ornate and unique. They were the status symbols of their day. You'll also find some beautiful, colorful antique tile work and painted glass in some of the buildings. MIRAFLORES CENTRAL PARK AND JOHN F. KENNEDY PARK These two parks are right next to each other and are only separated by a big sidewalk with a bike path. This is another very popular local hangout, and you can usually find live music and dancing in the middle of the Central Park, though it's tough to get a visual of it unless you're tall - there is usually a crowd. The parks are surrounded by lots of restaurants and bars, and it's a great place to people-watch. One of the more interesting things about the parks is that a ton of cats call these places home. I don't know the exact story behind it (I'm sure it could be found by doing some Google searching), but now there is a local rescue that ensures that the cats are well-fed, spayed & neutered, and protected. It sounds like the locals have mixed feelings about cats taking over their parks, but the tourists sure seem to enjoy it. You'll find lots of local artists hanging out here, as well, selling paintings and other artisanal works like jewelry, metalworks, clothing, and accessories like purses and bags. Price-wise, you're likely to pay more here than at other local markets or in other Peruvian cities, but if you see something you like, it's worth trying to haggle a price. While you're here, please do yourself a favor and snack on some picarones. They are basically Peru's answer to donuts, and they're made with sweet potato (or yam) flour, so they have a bit of a pumpkin spice-ish flavor to them. They're doused in chancaca syrup, which resembles maple syrup in flavor but is made from raw sugarcane and is often flavored with cinnamon and/or orange peel. They're made fresh and they're just heavenly while they're still warm. You'll find a red cart labeled "picarones" in the Central Park with one or two ladies working behind it. For a few extra soles, you can get Chicha Morada to drink with them (a purple corn-based juice popular in Peru). Please be aware that you will be surrounded by lots of bees within 30 seconds of getting your picarones, so please note this if you have any kind of bee allergy. I walk around the perimeter of the park as I'm eating them to help with this. #buzzoff HUACA PUCLLANA "Huaca" in Quechua (the indigenous language of Peru) means "sacred place", and "Huaca Pucllana" means "sacred place to play" which gives you a little insight into the history of this archeological gem situated in the heart of Miraflores. Constructed with adobe and clay, these structures have withstood the test of time and "acts of God" having withstood several major earthquakes in its lifespan. It's estimated that the complex was built somewhere around 500 A.D., but the top of the pyramid wasn't discovered until the mid-20th century. It was a motocross park previously, if you can believe that - people were riding their bikes on top of an ancient pyramid! In 2010, four funerary bundles were discovered well-intact. So much has yet to be discovered and learned about this ancient site. You have to book a tour in order to enter the site, which run every 30 minutes or so. They do have tours in both Spanish and English. It's an inexpensive way to learn about pre-Inca civilizations and I highly recommend it. Be sure to bring plenty of water to drink and a hat or sunscreen, as the area is not shaded and the Peruvian sun is pretty intense. After the tour, treat yourself to a gourmet meal in the restaurant located adjacent to the attraction. I had the best Pisco Sour while I was there, and my meal was delicious. I recommend the crunchy quinoa salad. LARCOMAR Larcomar is the name of the shopping complex that is lodged into the cliffs along the coastline of Lima. I was so confused when the Uber driver dropped me off - I kept looking for a building that resembled a mall and I walked around aimlessly for more time than I'd care to admit. In addition to the shopping options that you'd find in an upscale mall anywhere else, there are several really good restaurants (I recommend Ko - excellent sushi and Asian fusion options) and you can't beat the views. Above the mall is a playspace for kids, and if you walk about 5-10 minutes up the pathways, you'll find more green spaces, parks, a lighthouse, a crepe stand, and a place to try paragliding (parapente in Spanish). It's such a nice area to go walking around! BASILICA Y CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE LIMA The Church and Convent of San Francisco is a beautiful example of the Baroque style of the 17th century. You are able to go inside of the church and snap photos, taking note of some of the antique features of the church, like the main altar and pulpits. You are not allowed, however, to take photos inside the convent, which is where most tourists tend to go. The convent is particularly famous for its underground catacombs that house the remains of approximately 25,000 residents of Lima. The wealthier elite of the city who donated generous amounts to the church earned spots in these graves. Today, many of the remains are on public display as tours are given through the catacombs. Many more graves lie deeper down still, and will likely remain undisturbed. My favorite feature of the convent was its library. Today, the library is used exclusively by the residents of the convent, and many of the books from centuries past are still housed on the shelves, out of the reach of the public. The church boasts lots of wooden domes and adornments comprised of various types of wood imported from other parts of the world, including cedar from Panama. Some of the wood has deteriorated over time due to earthquakes and the climate conditions of Lima, and those sections have been replaced by native Peruvian woods. It is definitely worth a tour of the convent, as long as you don't mind the sometimes-claustrophobic conditions of the catacombs. It really is a fascinating piece of Lima's history. A QUICK GUIDE TO LIMA'S DISTRICTS AND WHERE TO STAY
Lima is divided into several districts and neighborhoods. As a tourist, you'll likely spend most of your time in the following areas: Miraflores, San Isidro, Barranco, Pueblo Libre, and Central Lima. San Isidro is the business and financial district of Lima. I didn't spend much time there personally except for visiting a few cafes and restaurants. There are lots of hotels in this area, as well. Miraflores is the upscale district of Lima and is Barranco's neighbor to the north. This is generally a safe area and you'll find lots of shops and restaurants here. It's where a lot of tourists tend to stay, but be aware that you'll typically pay more for lodging here due to its convenience - it's basically the heart of Lima. I covered Barranco already, and it's also a great place to stay if you can find reasonably-priced lodging (if that's a factor at all for you). Pueblo Libre has several of the museums that you'll want to visit, as well as a few raved-about restaurants. I wouldn't necessarily recommend staying in this area, though, just based on my own personal observations. I stayed in a district called San Borja. I found my room on AirBnb which is in the house of a local family. The owner speaks English very well, and I had a very positive experience. If you're interested, I can provide you with the link to his rental. San Borja is a very safe residential neighborhood with lots of green spaces. The downside is that it's not very close to any of the tourist attractions so you'll definitely have to take a taxi or Uber to get most anywhere. But, it's also cheaper than staying in Miraflores or Barranco. SUGGESTIONS FOR ITINERARIES One Day in Lima: Spend a couple of hours in the morning at Museo Larco and have lunch at the on-site restaurant. Take a taxi or Uber to the Plaza de Armas and spend time walking around and taking photos. Walk inside the Cathedral de Lima and walk to the Basilica y Convento de San Francisco, taking a tour of the convent and the catacombs. Take a taxi/Uber to Larcomar to enjoy the views of the Costa Verde, and for dinner and drinks at sunset. If you have some energy left, take a cab/Uber to Ayahuasca bar located in Barranco and enjoy a cocktail or three before calling it a day. Two Days in Lima: Day 1 - Larco Museum, Museum of Art or Museum of Archaeology, Plaza San Martin & Plaza de Armas (they're very close to each other) Day 2 - Barranco - book a tour or walk around on your own; MATE museum, finish the day at Larcomar - try paragliding if you're up for it or enjoy the coastal views over dinner/drinks. Or, you could finish the day at Miraflores Central Park/John F Kennedy park - eating at one of the many nearby restaurants and watching all the activity happening in the park, and even petting a few of the cats. If you *can* squeeze in Huaca Pucllana, especially if you're a history buff, try to find time for that somewhere in your two days, as well. FOOD/DRINKS Honestly, there are SO many options for excellent restaurants and bars in Lima. I didn't even scratch the surface. You can't really go wrong. However, I am a huge breakfast/brunch person so I will at minimum recommend Mo Bistro in Miraflores for brunch (they have mimosas, bloody marys, and other "brunchy" cocktails if you like a little of the booze with your brunch). As always, I am ready to lend advice or give recommendations based on the month I've spent in Lima. There is plenty I didn't do or see, but that will have to be saved for the next time I visit. I hope you have an opportunity to visit yourself, even if it's just a quick stop on the way to Machu Picchu. It really is worth checking out. Thank you for reading!
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AuthorHi! I'm Charity. I'm from Omaha, Nebraska, USA. I quit my job in October 2016 to travel the world. Archives
June 2022
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