Just go, C!
I'm Charity, a proud auntie, wine lover, semi-nerd, and dreamer who can't stay in one place for too long.
WHAT'S UP, GANGSTERS?!? It feels SO good to be back to travel blogging. I feel like a missing piece of my heart puzzle has been found and put into place. I won't go into a whole life story about the past few years since I last blogged. I am simply going to pick right back up where I left off and tell you a little about PORTUGAL! I don't really have any major reasons why I picked Portugal, other than I got a smokin' flight deal. Ha! Sometimes that's all the inspiration you need, right?? Though, I will say that Portugal has been on my radar for a while, especially since I'd seen it popping up on all the "must travel" lists in the past several months. It seemed to have a lot to offer, so that combined with the flight deal, I figured it would be a great country to visit. Turns out I hit the nail on the head! Portugal, despite its relatively small size in comparison to other countries (it's roughly the same size as the state of Maine), really packs a bunch. Vibrant, picturesque, exciting cities; tons of historical significance; incredible coasts and beaches; mouth-watering fresh seafood (and I'm not even a big seafood person); desserts and pastries (more on THAT delicious topic soon); excellent wine; warm and friendly people; lots of English-speakers - it's a fabulous destination for a variety of reasons. My Portugal itinerary was as follows: Days 1-3: Lisbon with a day trip to Sintra Days 4-6: Salema and the Algarve Days 7-8: The Douro Valley Days 9-11: Porto Day 12: Back to Lisbon to return home I have zero regrets about how I laid out this trip. I think I spent the perfect number of days in each location to ensure that I could fit the trip within 2 weeks. Of course, had I more time, I certainly would have extended the number of days in Lisbon and Porto and added a few more cities to the itinerary. But, I felt good about how much I was able to squeeze into two weeks while still having time to relax. I will create separate posts for each of the places/areas I visited in Portugal because this blog could easily turn into a novel if I tried to include everything in one post. For this particular blog, I want to share my itinerary as well as some general tips and tricks for traveling in Portugal. Flights: I am a member of Scott's Cheap Flights. I have a paid membership which allows me to get constant emails and updates on flight deals based on selected airports of my choosing. This includes "mistake" fares. I absolutely love this site but to be honest, it really only makes sense to have a membership if you take at least 2-3 international flights per year. Otherwise, just use Google Flights or Momondo. Rental car: I used Zest to book my rental car for when I was in Portugal. I rented starting the day I left Lisbon (because there's no sense in having a car while you're in the cities) and dropped it off again when I returned to Lisbon. Zest is kind of like a booking.com for rental cars. It's an aggregate site that allows you to choose from various rental sites based on price, reviews, etc. I am very satisfied with my booking experience with Zest and recommend it to others. One very important thing to note, particularly for us Americans, is that manual cars are much more common in Europe than automatic transmissions. If you can drive a "stick" then you will have a much easier time, and pay much less, when reserving and renting cars. Fortunately, I had experience with driving a manual - though a bit rusty, for sure - but was able to get back into the swing of it fairly quickly and easily. Thank goodness. (The car drop-off experience was interesting, though, haha - will have to tell that tale later on) Secondly, our SUV and truck-loving American selves will also struggle with navigating the narrow and winding roads throughout Portugal, so best to stick with a smaller car. In some cases, you literally will not be able to pass through some streets, especially in the cities, if you have a bigger car. You will usually get the best prices when you book in advance. I booked in January for my mid-April trip and paid only $218 USD for 9 days. Prices definitely go up the closer to your trip date, and during high tourism seasons, so plan accordingly. When it comes to pumping gas in Portugal (and Europe in general, really), bear in mind that they use a different system than we do ;) so you will be purchasing fuel per liter, not per gallon. Fuel stations will either allow you to pay at the pump or you will need to pay inside first. It took me some time to figure out how many Euros it would take to fill up the rental car I was driving. You may have to make a few stops before you get a good sense of how many liters and how many Euros will work for your particular car and journey. Reservations: Are they necessary? One of the only snags I dealt with in Portugal was making reservations for the wineries in the Douro Region. Long story short, if you plan to visit ANY wineries, check first to see if they require reservations. Some don't, but many do. I was turned away from several wineries because I didn't make prior reservations. Lesson learned. Booking a wine tour with a tour company in advance will also alleviate this frustration for you. (Speaking of tours, I highly recommend downloading the app Get Your Guide to book your tours in Portugal!) In Lisbon, if you want to catch a Fado show, then I highly recommend making reservations for this, as well. I will discuss Fado in further depth whenever I post about Lisbon, but it really is a must-do in my opinion. If you're staying at a hotel in Lisbon, they can make recommendations of restaurants that offer Fado performances (most likely in the Alfama district) and also call for you to make reservations. Give yourself at least a 2-3 day advance window to book this. Additionally, I would recommend making dinner reservations in cities like Lisbon and Porto. I recommend using the app The Fork to make your reservations. One thing to note is that the Portuguese eat dinner much later than we Americans do - often between 7-10pm, so bear that in mind. Some restaurants are actually closed in the afternoons until dinnertime. Is Portugal safe for solo and female travelers? 100% yes, I would absolutely recommend Portugal as a safe country to travel to, particularly for solo female travelers. One thing about Portugal that may appeal to new and/or solo travelers is that a large number of the population speaks English. Since Portuguese isn't a widely popular language internationally, the Portuguese often learn at least a 2nd if not a 3rd language when they go to school. Often, those languages are French, English, and/or Spanish. This makes traveling a piece of cake for Americans who pretty much only speak one language. ;) (Not judging but kind of judging) I am not someone who does a lot of walking after dark in foreign countries, but I think if you stuck to the main touristy areas, you'd be ok. Uber is very common and safe here so don't be afraid to use it. As with any country, be mindful of pickpocketing and be mindful of your surroundings, no matter where you are or what time of day you're in. Common sense stuff, really. I have SO much more to tell you about Portugal, and I will, in time. I hope this has been useful information for anyone who may be interested in traveling to this beautiful country in the future!
Please comment with any questions or just general thoughts about this blog. Thank you very much for reading. It's great to be back. :)
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Peru - what a country!! I'm wrapping up my last few days in Peru hanging out in Cusco. I have a lot of mixed feelings about it, but mostly I am supremely grateful that I had the opportunity to explore as much of this country as I did. I still feel like I barely scratched the surface, but the rest will have to wait for another time. I thought I would share an overview of the places I visited while I was here, and summarize my thoughts on the last several months. And, I want to share what's next for me. First Stop: Trujillo Trujillo was my introduction to Peru. As I'd mentioned in my post about Lima, I didn't jive too well with Trujillo. I felt like the energy was really low and the place was fairly run-down. Now that I've had the chance to visit other places in Peru, my opinion of the city has lightened somewhat, but it's still not a place I'd jump at the chance to return to. That being said, one thing I really enjoyed about Trujillo was the access to the archeological sites nearby. The ancient city of Chan Chan is a must-see if you were to visit which gave a glimpse into the powerful civilizations that preceded the Incas. I also enjoyed Huaca de la Luna and Huaca del Sol (Temple of the Moon and Sun, respectively). There are also some really good historical museums worth visiting in Trujillo. All in all, I'd say if you wanted to add Trujillo to your itinerary for the history lessons (which I would certainly encourage one to do), then 2-3 days would likely be sufficient. You could see everything worth seeing within that timeframe. Six weeks was a little much for me. Another plus about staying in Trujillo was that it was a fairly short distance to one of my favorite cities in Peru - Cajamarca. There is also a ton of history to be seen in Cajamarca, and it's higher up in the Andean high plains, so it's prettier, too. And, the colonial architecture is certainly worth admiring. Next Stop: Lima I wrote a full blog post on Lima so I won't spend a lot of time delving into it here, but Lima totally surprised me how much I ended up really enjoying it. There is something there to do for everyone. It's a great mix of archeology, fantastic museums, world-class food, and modern comforts. I'd recommend at least a week in Lima as there are tons of things to see and do, but if you've only got a few days, my blog post about Lima gives you some suggested itineraries. I'd highly recommend that you visit while you're in Peru! Next Stop: Arequipa Personally, I think Arequipa is a little underrated when it comes to where tourists tend to visit in Peru. I understand most people have a limited span of time in the country and most of that time is spent probably in Cusco, Machu Picchu, and maybe a tiny bit in Lima, but if you have some extra time in your itinerary, it's worth putting Arequipa on your list. One thing I love about the city is that it's flanked by 3 major volcanoes, with Misti being the grandest. I was there during rainy season so I didn't get to see them as often as I would have liked, but when I did get to see them, it was completely jaw-dropping. Arequipa's Plaza de Armas is one of my favorites, 2nd maybe to Lima's. The main cathedral in all its gothic glory stands tall in the plaza and commands your attention. My favorite touristic site in the city was the Santa Catalina Monastery which is basically like a small city within a city. It's really beautiful inside with plenty of Insta-photo worthy opportunities around every corner! I'd recommend booking a tour around the city if you visit, as it usually takes you to the hot spots within a day. You could probably do fine by spending 2-3 days within this city, as well. Next Stop: Puno and Lake Titicaca I definitely struggled for a couple of days in Puno because of the high altitude (it's about 12,500 ft) but once I had a couple of days to adjust, I very much enjoyed my time in this city. Puno is actually much larger than I thought it would be. It's a significant city to Peruvians who call it the "folkloric capital" of Peru. I had the fortune of being there during Carnaval season, so every day there was a parade that happened around the Plaza de Armas. It was a great way to get a sense of the local customs and traditions. And the main reason why people usually come to Puno is for Lake Titicaca, and I'll assure you that it does not disappoint. It is officially the highest navigable body of water. There are tons of tour companies that operate along the lake, so you'll have no shortage of choices, and you really don't even need to book anything in advance - wait until you arrive and decide what you want to do. I did a tour to the Uros Islands which I loved, and also a tour to Taquile Island, which was pretty magical. The area actually reminds me a lot of the Mediterranean. And again, there were some celebrations going on for Carnaval so it was a treat to be there for that. If you add Puno to your itinerary and you have a limited amount of time, again, 2-3 days should be enough to cover the popular tourist things-to-do. Just make sure you plan for the high altitude if you haven't been to any of the other high-elevation cities in Peru! Final Stop: Cusco Most tourists in Peru come for Machu Picchu and stay in Cusco, so you will definitely be in good company should you decide to make the trip. The city is very popular with both tourists and expats because of the availability of all our creature comforts. Even spending a full month in Cusco, I feel like I have only discovered a sliver of what there is to see and do here. You can always find something to do. There are beautiful cathedrals, many of which are open for tours, but most of them don't allow photos inside so please be mindful of that. Also, you are spoiled for choice in terms of the archeological sites that are nearby. I would recommend buying a tourist ticket from the office of tourism near the main square which is good for 10 days (assuming you'll be here that long) and find a tour or two that visits those locations. Examples of Inca sites include Sacsayhuaman (pronounced kinda like "sexy woman" which is basically what I call it, anyway), Q'enko, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay. It also helps you get into attractions that are outside of Cusco but still very much worth seeing like Korikancha, the ruins at Pisac, and the ruins at Ollantaytambo. Pisac and Ollantaytambo are absolutely must-sees as far as I'm concerned. There are also lots of great restaurants and cafes for the foodies in the audience. One challenge is that the wifi is generally poor, but that seems to be the case throughout the country. Just something to keep in mind if you require strong wifi for work, etc. You can throw a rock anywhere and hit a tour agency, so you can be a bit selective about who you go through. Make sure to do your due diligence with research and if your Spanish isn't too hot, it's a good idea to make sure that the tour company offers guides who speak English. It will save you a lot of frustration, I assure you. One thing I will warn you about Cusco is that the shopping opportunities are PLENTIFUL and you will be tempted to buy ALL the things while you're here. I normally hate shopping, but here, I had to constantly remind myself that I wasn't made out of money and I needed to be a little more mindful of my spending habits. Despite that, I still had to purchase a 2nd suitcase solely for the purpose of dragging my Cusco haul back to the States. Don't say I didn't warn you! And then, of course, there is the granddaddy of them all: Machu Picchu. Looking back, I'm kinda glad that I basically saved Machu Picchu for the end of my time in Peru. I had the opportunity to learn a TON about Inca culture and history by visiting all of the other places in Peru, so I think it helped me to appreciate Machu Picchu even more. I would definitely recommend that if you only come to Peru for a short time, do yourself a favor and study up a bit, or watch some documentaries, about the Incas. I've been impressed with nearly everything I've learned about this civilization. I've also been impressed with the cultures that preceded them. Peru is extremely proud of its ancient heritage, and most Peruvians, especially in the Andean areas, still speak at least two langauages - Spanish and Quechua, which was the language of the Incas. I'm what the doctors would call "not in the best shape" so I opted to take a train to and from Machu Picchu, but eventually I'd like to do one of the 3-5 day treks to get there, either the Inca trail or the Salkantay trek. If you are in better shape than me (which isn't too difficult), then I'd definitely recommend that you opt for one of those treks. By all accounts I've read and seen from those who have completed the treks, it can be an inspiring, life-changing experience, with Machu Picchu just being the icing on the cake. While I might regret not being in better shape, I still thoroughly enjoyed the train ride I took to and from Aguas Calientes. I chose PeruRail's Vistadome option which gives nearly panoramic views of the Sacred Valley from its large windows. Definitely worth the little extra cost for the upgrade! I ended up getting a tour guide for Machu Picchu, but she only spoke Spanish so I missed out on a good chunk of what she told me, but I felt good supporting a local and it was a great opportunity to practice my Spanish (what little of it there is to practice). I don't think you necessarily need a tour guide, but I only say that if you plan to do research ahead of time into Machu Picchu and all of the things there are to see there. There are some incredibly important features that you wouldn't want to miss. It's great for taking pictures and all, but in my opinion, in order to fully appreciate it, you need to have a better understanding of the story (and theories) behind it, and all of the work that went into it. So now that I've tackled Peru, what's next for me?
I've decided to hang up my hiking boots for a while and I've secured an apartment near Ft. Worth, TX, to be near my sister and her family. I've been a nomad for a good 2 1/2 years now, so I am very proud of what I've accomplished and thrilled at how many places I've seen and people I've been able to meet during that time. It's a chapter of my life that I'll always be fond of and has undoubtedly changed me for the better. However, I feel that my priorities have shifted a bit and I've come to realize how important my family is to me, and how important human connections and relationships matter. Even someone who is as independent and often introverted as I am knows that I can't go through life completely on my own. I crave closeness, community, and camaraderie. I'm hoping to fill that void a bit when I return to the U.S. Don't get me wrong, traveling will still be a big part of my life. I've already got a couple trips in the works for later this year. What can I say? It's in my blood. I am just seeking a little more of a balance between being a nomad and being a good sister, auntie, and friend. With that, I want to thank every single one of you who has been reading my blog for the past 2.5 years and given me the support I've often needed to keep going. I hope I can one day return the favor to you. Thank you for following along on my adventures, and if you ever need a traveling buddy or just some advice, you know who to call! My first six weeks in Peru were a little rough, to be honest. I love to teach, so I appreciated having the opportunity to do that again, but I just did not jive with the city and area I was in. The neighborhoods were run-down and littered, teeming with honking taxis and stray dogs. I saw and dealt with plenty of that when I was living in SE Asia, so I'm not sure what the deal was exactly, but from the day I got there, I wasn't feeling it. The six weeks went by very slowly and were prolonged further by my bouts with some kind of food-related illness and one of the nastiest colds I've ever battled. Fortunately, I had a month back home to look forward to after the six weeks was up. I thoroughly enjoyed spending the holidays with my loved ones, and it gave me a much-needed repose. That month went by very quickly, as it tends to do, and I have to admit that I was not thrilled about getting back on the plane to go back to Peru. I struggled with a lot of guilt about that feeling, too. For crying out loud, the opportunity to go ANYWHERE outside the U.S., let alone one of the most culturally-rich and beautiful tourist haven countries in the world, is an opportunity that few are able to relish in their lifetimes. Who did I think I was to not be jumping up and down in feverish excitement at the mere prospect? Thankfully, Lima has rescued me from the depths of my guilt-ridden apprehension. This city has surpassed my expectations and is honestly one of my favorite cities that I've visited to date. Talk about a 180! Lima seems to have a little of everything for everyone. For me, it has historical significance, world-class museums, glorious architecture, an enormous selection of cuisines, ease of transportation (as in, Uber everywhere), fantastic weather, a hip art scene, and fascinating local cultures. It checks off pretty much every box on my "What Makes a City Awesome" checklist. The only things I'm not too crazy about are the traffic and noise. Lima is a very crowded (but very lively!) city. In this blog post, I'll share with you some of my favorite spots. Many travelers come to Lima for a quick day or two on the way to Cusco/Machu Picchu, so I'll include a couple of suggested itineraries for people who are here for shorter stays. MUSEO LARCO This museum is my favorite of the ones I've visited in Lima. It has a massive collection of pre-Columbian art, including ceramics, metals, jewelry, and textiles. In my history classes, we really only touched on the Inca civilization, and even then, learned very little about them. I am constantly amazed at how many ancient civilizations preceded the Incas - and thrived for centuries more - and how little they are discussed in modern times. Among my favorite pieces were the facial adornments, the quipus which were the ancient way of keeping records, and the funerary bundles used to bury the dead and send them off in style into the next life. Museo Larco is even more well-known for its collection of erotic pottery from the Moche culture. The Moche people were not shy when it came to their sexuality; they honored it in their ceramic works, displaying varying sexual acts and positions between humans, animals, gods, and even the dead. Another incredibly unique feature about this museum is its open storage rooms which allow public access to view the enormous collections of ceramics not housed in the main museum. As if all of this weren't already enough to appreciate, the museum also has an on-site restaurant surrounded by well-maintained beautiful gardens. A glass of wine following the exhaustingly stimulating tour through the museum was a real treat. Other museums well worth mentioning: MUSEO DE ARTE DE LIMA (MALI) This museum rivals any other renowned art museum out there, as far as I'm concerned. It, too, has an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art up through modern contemporary. I personally loved the furniture pieces on display from as early as the 16th century. Check out any temporary exhibits they might have, as well - I was there while they were showcasing a Yoko Ono exhibit, but sadly, most of it was in Spanish which was a little disappointing. (Yet another reason to keep up on my Spanish lessons!) Outside the museum is a beautiful park where you'll see a lot of locals hanging out, especially on weekends, and when it's hot out (which has been most of the time, lately). The museum also has an attached café if you care to grab a coffee and a quick snack while you're there. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY, ANTHROPOLOGY, AND HISTORY OF PERU If I had to pick between this one and Museo Larco, I would pick Larco, but if you have a little extra time in your schedule, this one is still very much worth visiting. It also has a nice collection of ceramics and a few more funerary exhibits, and I preferred the textile exhibits of this museum over Larco's. There is also a nice courtyard in the center of the museum if you'd like to rest between exhibits and take it all in. Grab a bite to eat and a Pisco Sour (Peru's national drink) at the nearby Antigua Taberna Queirolo restaurant while you're at it. Their Lomo Saltado is fantastic. MUSEO MATE - MARIO TESTINO MUSEUM Mario Testino is a world-famous Peruvian photographer who enjoys capturing beautiful celebrities in the more laid-back moments of their opulent lifestyles. He also has captured some beautiful photos of indigenous Peruvians. If you're into photography at all, this place is definitely worth visiting. The museum is also popular for its beautiful and emotional tributary exhibit to Lady Diana. THE BARRANCO DISTRICT Hands down, my favorite neighborhood of Lima. You'll read about it online as the "bohemian" art district of Lima, and while it does live up to that description, the "cool" it exudes feels effortless. It doesn't discriminate, either - local Peruvians from different wealth classes, the wealthier expats, tourists, families, etc. all have seem to have found a place in Barranco. If and when you visit Lima, I would recommend devoting a few hours (or more) to simply walking around. Some of the best things I found and saw were completely by accident. Barranco is quite famous for it street art and murals, and you generally don't have to walk too far to find them. Some of the more popular ones are near the Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros). The bridge itself isn't anything very exciting, in my opinion, but there is a local superstition that if you make a wish, hold your breath, and walk all the way across without needing to breathe, then your wish will come true. I tried and failed, so apparently I am doomed to a life of despair, but at least I got some sweet photos of murals! I have uploaded a ton of the mural pictures to my Instagram account, so if you're not already following me and would like to check those out, find me @just_go_c PLAZA DE ARMAS (OR PLAZA MAYOR) Many cities in South America (and other Latin-American cities) have a Plaza de Armas. It often served historically as a gathering place for citizens, an area to demonstrate and protest, an area to show off military resources, and a place for government officials and the elite to reside. Lima's Plaza de Armas is where the city of Lima officially began. Just being in the square, it feels like you are being transported to another time in history. The architecture is jaw-dropping. Horse-drawn carriages take tourists around the square to take it all in. This is where a lot of the city or national official celebrations happen, as well. I was fortunate enough to be in the square (by complete accident, once again) while a parade was happening in celebration of the Feast of the Virgin of Candelaria. It was so colorful and energetic; what a treat to be there and see everyone's costumes and watch them dance to their traditional music! This is a great place to observe and people-watch; and of course, take a ton of photos. If you're so inclined, it would be worth taking a tour of the Cathedral of Lima, as well. This cathedral houses what's left of Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador famous (or infamous) for putting an end to the Inca empire. I would also encourage you to step away from the main square and walk around the surrounding streets, as well. And, don't forget to look up - the balconies on some of the older buildings are really ornate and unique. They were the status symbols of their day. You'll also find some beautiful, colorful antique tile work and painted glass in some of the buildings. MIRAFLORES CENTRAL PARK AND JOHN F. KENNEDY PARK These two parks are right next to each other and are only separated by a big sidewalk with a bike path. This is another very popular local hangout, and you can usually find live music and dancing in the middle of the Central Park, though it's tough to get a visual of it unless you're tall - there is usually a crowd. The parks are surrounded by lots of restaurants and bars, and it's a great place to people-watch. One of the more interesting things about the parks is that a ton of cats call these places home. I don't know the exact story behind it (I'm sure it could be found by doing some Google searching), but now there is a local rescue that ensures that the cats are well-fed, spayed & neutered, and protected. It sounds like the locals have mixed feelings about cats taking over their parks, but the tourists sure seem to enjoy it. You'll find lots of local artists hanging out here, as well, selling paintings and other artisanal works like jewelry, metalworks, clothing, and accessories like purses and bags. Price-wise, you're likely to pay more here than at other local markets or in other Peruvian cities, but if you see something you like, it's worth trying to haggle a price. While you're here, please do yourself a favor and snack on some picarones. They are basically Peru's answer to donuts, and they're made with sweet potato (or yam) flour, so they have a bit of a pumpkin spice-ish flavor to them. They're doused in chancaca syrup, which resembles maple syrup in flavor but is made from raw sugarcane and is often flavored with cinnamon and/or orange peel. They're made fresh and they're just heavenly while they're still warm. You'll find a red cart labeled "picarones" in the Central Park with one or two ladies working behind it. For a few extra soles, you can get Chicha Morada to drink with them (a purple corn-based juice popular in Peru). Please be aware that you will be surrounded by lots of bees within 30 seconds of getting your picarones, so please note this if you have any kind of bee allergy. I walk around the perimeter of the park as I'm eating them to help with this. #buzzoff HUACA PUCLLANA "Huaca" in Quechua (the indigenous language of Peru) means "sacred place", and "Huaca Pucllana" means "sacred place to play" which gives you a little insight into the history of this archeological gem situated in the heart of Miraflores. Constructed with adobe and clay, these structures have withstood the test of time and "acts of God" having withstood several major earthquakes in its lifespan. It's estimated that the complex was built somewhere around 500 A.D., but the top of the pyramid wasn't discovered until the mid-20th century. It was a motocross park previously, if you can believe that - people were riding their bikes on top of an ancient pyramid! In 2010, four funerary bundles were discovered well-intact. So much has yet to be discovered and learned about this ancient site. You have to book a tour in order to enter the site, which run every 30 minutes or so. They do have tours in both Spanish and English. It's an inexpensive way to learn about pre-Inca civilizations and I highly recommend it. Be sure to bring plenty of water to drink and a hat or sunscreen, as the area is not shaded and the Peruvian sun is pretty intense. After the tour, treat yourself to a gourmet meal in the restaurant located adjacent to the attraction. I had the best Pisco Sour while I was there, and my meal was delicious. I recommend the crunchy quinoa salad. LARCOMAR Larcomar is the name of the shopping complex that is lodged into the cliffs along the coastline of Lima. I was so confused when the Uber driver dropped me off - I kept looking for a building that resembled a mall and I walked around aimlessly for more time than I'd care to admit. In addition to the shopping options that you'd find in an upscale mall anywhere else, there are several really good restaurants (I recommend Ko - excellent sushi and Asian fusion options) and you can't beat the views. Above the mall is a playspace for kids, and if you walk about 5-10 minutes up the pathways, you'll find more green spaces, parks, a lighthouse, a crepe stand, and a place to try paragliding (parapente in Spanish). It's such a nice area to go walking around! BASILICA Y CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE LIMA The Church and Convent of San Francisco is a beautiful example of the Baroque style of the 17th century. You are able to go inside of the church and snap photos, taking note of some of the antique features of the church, like the main altar and pulpits. You are not allowed, however, to take photos inside the convent, which is where most tourists tend to go. The convent is particularly famous for its underground catacombs that house the remains of approximately 25,000 residents of Lima. The wealthier elite of the city who donated generous amounts to the church earned spots in these graves. Today, many of the remains are on public display as tours are given through the catacombs. Many more graves lie deeper down still, and will likely remain undisturbed. My favorite feature of the convent was its library. Today, the library is used exclusively by the residents of the convent, and many of the books from centuries past are still housed on the shelves, out of the reach of the public. The church boasts lots of wooden domes and adornments comprised of various types of wood imported from other parts of the world, including cedar from Panama. Some of the wood has deteriorated over time due to earthquakes and the climate conditions of Lima, and those sections have been replaced by native Peruvian woods. It is definitely worth a tour of the convent, as long as you don't mind the sometimes-claustrophobic conditions of the catacombs. It really is a fascinating piece of Lima's history. A QUICK GUIDE TO LIMA'S DISTRICTS AND WHERE TO STAY
Lima is divided into several districts and neighborhoods. As a tourist, you'll likely spend most of your time in the following areas: Miraflores, San Isidro, Barranco, Pueblo Libre, and Central Lima. San Isidro is the business and financial district of Lima. I didn't spend much time there personally except for visiting a few cafes and restaurants. There are lots of hotels in this area, as well. Miraflores is the upscale district of Lima and is Barranco's neighbor to the north. This is generally a safe area and you'll find lots of shops and restaurants here. It's where a lot of tourists tend to stay, but be aware that you'll typically pay more for lodging here due to its convenience - it's basically the heart of Lima. I covered Barranco already, and it's also a great place to stay if you can find reasonably-priced lodging (if that's a factor at all for you). Pueblo Libre has several of the museums that you'll want to visit, as well as a few raved-about restaurants. I wouldn't necessarily recommend staying in this area, though, just based on my own personal observations. I stayed in a district called San Borja. I found my room on AirBnb which is in the house of a local family. The owner speaks English very well, and I had a very positive experience. If you're interested, I can provide you with the link to his rental. San Borja is a very safe residential neighborhood with lots of green spaces. The downside is that it's not very close to any of the tourist attractions so you'll definitely have to take a taxi or Uber to get most anywhere. But, it's also cheaper than staying in Miraflores or Barranco. SUGGESTIONS FOR ITINERARIES One Day in Lima: Spend a couple of hours in the morning at Museo Larco and have lunch at the on-site restaurant. Take a taxi or Uber to the Plaza de Armas and spend time walking around and taking photos. Walk inside the Cathedral de Lima and walk to the Basilica y Convento de San Francisco, taking a tour of the convent and the catacombs. Take a taxi/Uber to Larcomar to enjoy the views of the Costa Verde, and for dinner and drinks at sunset. If you have some energy left, take a cab/Uber to Ayahuasca bar located in Barranco and enjoy a cocktail or three before calling it a day. Two Days in Lima: Day 1 - Larco Museum, Museum of Art or Museum of Archaeology, Plaza San Martin & Plaza de Armas (they're very close to each other) Day 2 - Barranco - book a tour or walk around on your own; MATE museum, finish the day at Larcomar - try paragliding if you're up for it or enjoy the coastal views over dinner/drinks. Or, you could finish the day at Miraflores Central Park/John F Kennedy park - eating at one of the many nearby restaurants and watching all the activity happening in the park, and even petting a few of the cats. If you *can* squeeze in Huaca Pucllana, especially if you're a history buff, try to find time for that somewhere in your two days, as well. FOOD/DRINKS Honestly, there are SO many options for excellent restaurants and bars in Lima. I didn't even scratch the surface. You can't really go wrong. However, I am a huge breakfast/brunch person so I will at minimum recommend Mo Bistro in Miraflores for brunch (they have mimosas, bloody marys, and other "brunchy" cocktails if you like a little of the booze with your brunch). As always, I am ready to lend advice or give recommendations based on the month I've spent in Lima. There is plenty I didn't do or see, but that will have to be saved for the next time I visit. I hope you have an opportunity to visit yourself, even if it's just a quick stop on the way to Machu Picchu. It really is worth checking out. Thank you for reading! Two years. Wow.
Two years ago today, I landed in Auckland, having zero idea of what life had in store for me, but knowing somehow that whatever was about to happen was going to be unforgettable. And, it has been exactly that, and so much more. I still remember how I felt in the days leading up to my departure from the U.S. Sometimes, it feels like that moment in my life happened mere days ago. And sometimes, it feels like years, a lot more than two years, at that. So, now what? I've been asking myself this question a LOT lately and I've come to some conclusions. I've made it pretty clear in my previous posts that my lifestyle comes with trade-offs. I would never change any decisions I've made up to this point, but it's becoming very clear that I've neglected someone very important during these past couple of years: Me. I realize that might sound silly, since this whole traveling thing has been all about me, right? Well yeah, it kinda has been, and I acknowledge that there is something selfish about leaving everything and everyone behind to try to create more value in MY life. That being said, there have been some sacrifices made at the cost of my health and mental well-being. Traveling and living abroad can be a LOT of fun, but it can also be very lonely and isolating. I often felt lonely at home, too, so that part hasn't changed a whole lot, but I think being away from home really puts the loneliness in focus and in zoom mode. Yes, I have met a lot of people, and I stay in contact with several of them, which is amazing and wonderful, absolutely. But, I don't get to see them every day. I don't have "real" relationships with them because it's not possible, for me, at least, to develop and foster healthy relationships with people that I see for a hot minute. I often refer to myself as an "extroverted introvert" because while I love being around people, I crave my personal time, too. The problem is, I have a LOT of alone time and very little "people" time and it's making me sad. When I feel lonely and anxious, I make unhealthy choices. My physical health has all but gone by the wayside. I've gone through phases of trying to eat better and drink less and be more active, but those periods of time are short-lived because once the depression kicks in, it's all down the toilet. I believe my body needs some stability and security. Before I left home, I was active regularly, even during the latter months when I was really depressed, I still went to the gym every week. It's much, MUCH easier to make better healthy eating choices when I can prep my meals and cook everything myself, and have access to all kinds of healthy foods and ingredients that often aren't found elsewhere, at least not in the developing countries where I've been spending most of my time. I need that routine back in my life. I'm not saying that I'm going to come back home and go back to the same life I had before I left. I don't think that's even possible for me at this point. I've been gone too long and seen/done too much to be able to fit back into that mold. But, I need to find the balance. I don't know what that balance looks like exactly, but I'm fairly certain that it will involve more time with my family and friends, in places where I feel that I belong and know people who will fill my heart and soul with the social experiences and love that I so badly need right now. It's not easy for me to admit that I'm struggling, but admitting it is the first step necessary to getting what I need. I'm definitely not done traveling. It's in my blood and I don't think I could ever spend too much time in one place ever again. But, I'm not going to be a happy and healthy traveler if I keep going the way I've been going. I've lost some of my passion and some of the excitement I had when I was a newbie. I'm ready to focus on being healthy and loving myself. I learned during my ayahuasca experience what it really feels like to love and be loved, unconditionally. I've been craving that ever since. And I know that first and foremost, that kind of love has to start with me, toward myself. Or, I'll never get it anywhere (or with anyone) else. I'll keep everyone posted on my journey toward balance! Thank you so, so much for your support and for reading my blogs. Celebrating two years of selfies: This past month that I've spent in Cuenca has gone by like a snap of the fingers. I had a sneaking suspicion that I was going to like this place after all that I'd seen and heard about it, but I was still surprised at how quickly I settled in. Cuenca has become something of an expat haven in recent years, due to its not-too-overwhelmingly-large size and modern conveniences, its temperate climate, the friendly locals, and the affordability of the cost of living. It was just voted this year as South America's Leading City Break Destination by the World Travel Awards. Indeed, Cuenca has a lot of attractive features that would inspire anyone considering a trip to South America to put it on their list of must-visits. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this little city, and I'll tell you some of the reasons why! Reason #1: The Cathedrals Roman Catholicism was introduced during the Spanish colonization period, and remains as Ecuador's most important religion with nearly 80% of the country's population identifying as Roman Catholic. Though one wouldn't necessarily say that Ecuador's economy is one of the world's strongest, one need only look at its cathedrals and churches to understand where the financial priorities seem to lie. The oldest church in Cuenca was built in 1557 and is a museum today. You can take tours of most of the local churches; the more popular ones for tourists like the "Old Cathedral" and the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception (a.k.a. the "New Cathedral") will cost $2-3 to tour. The hours for admission are generally 9am - 5pm during the week. Reason #2: The Architecture I didn't think anything could ever top my enchantment with worn French colonial architecture, but Spanish colonial is definitely giving it a run for its money. I had the fortune of staying right in the historical center of Cuenca, which gave me daily eye candy and caused me to spend much of my walking commutes out and about with my mouth agape. The historic center was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999, for good reason. In addition to the Spanish colonial architecture, you can easily see neo-classical and baroque styles as you stroll throughout the historic center. Reason #3: The Big, Beautiful Doors I first realized my obsession with doors, arches, and other such entryways when I took my first trip abroad to Ireland in 2014. Ever since, I've made a point to note stand-out doors and entryways, and get a little giddy every time one catches my eye. There is an abundant supply of ornate, elaborate, and unique doors in Cuenca and it has made me incredibly happy. It's the equivalent of driving along a country road and seeing a horse; no matter how old or educated you happen to be, you always shout out to no one in particular, "HORSE!!" Yeah, that's me when I see a beautiful door. Reason #4: The Food I'm not going to elaborate on this one right now, because I'm planning an ENTIRE POST dedicated solely to the Ecuadorian foodscape. You must understand, I love food so much that I want to make sure it gets its own special shining moment in my blog. I'm sure you get it. Reason #5: The Rivers It's not commonly known, but the full official name of the city of Cuenca is (take a deep breath): Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca Quite the mouthful, hey? Basically, there are four major rivers that join up in and around Cuenca, which add a lot of beauty to an already-beautiful city. One of my favorite things to do in Cuenca is to walk along the sidewalk that runs alongside the Tomebamba River on a nice day. Other fantastic things to see and do in Cuenca: Visit the Pumapungo Museum and the Ruins This has been one of my favorite museums to date, despite the fact that all of the displays are in Spanish (Hey, good practice, right?). They have an amazing collection of Incan and Canari ethnographic artifacts, as well as a large section of modern art devoted to local artists. Just outside the doors of the museum, you can walk through the Pumapungo Ruins which are a nice sample of what life might have been like during the years of Incan civilization. You can see what remains of religious buildings, storage facilities, and aqueducts. It's a fantastic way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Take the Cuenca Hop On/Hop Off Tour OK, I know some people think these things are overly touristy and cheesy, but honestly, I think it's a great way to get a feel for a city and take note of places that you might want to visit later on. You can hop on at the northern side of Parque Calderon (the city's main square), and for $8, take a tour of either the northern or southern route of the city. The southern route will take you to Turi, which has a magnificent viewpoint of the entire city of Cuenca. There is also a swing just up some stairs that will allow you to "swing over Cuenca", adding a little adrenaline rush to your view, if you're better at dealing with heights than I am. Take some Spanish classes Despite the fact that many English-speaking expats live in Cuenca, it is still a city for the locals, and as a result, most people speak Spanish and very little to no English. It wouldn't hurt to brush up on those classes you took many moons ago in high school. I enrolled in a four-week program at a local school called Yanapuma, and it was a great experience. I still have a lot of Spanish to learn, but I learned a little more every day, and what better way to get your practice in than to immerse yourself in a Spanish-speaking culture? Plus, I have no doubts that having a little Spanish under my belt will come in handy in the future, too. Buy a Panama hat Many locals will be quick to correct you if you ever use the term "Panama hat" in front of them. Indeed, it is misleading, because these hats were originally woven in Ecuador beginning in the 16th/17th centuries. They were shipped to Panama to be sold to gold prospectors who weren't used to the heat of the Central American sun. They shot up in popularity when Teddy Roosevelt was photographed wearing one when he visited the construction site of the Panama Canal. There are several family-owned shops in Cuenca that sell the real deal, and a few places will even walk you through the process of making the hats. They are not terribly expensive; you can buy a good quality hat for around $25-30. Visit La Calle de Las Herrerias This neighborhood used to be the boundary between the city and the country, where local farmers and peasants would bring in their goods by horse for selling and trading. Later, this area was settled by blacksmiths and iron workers for many years. Today, there are still family-run shops that sell ornaments and metal décor, but many people seem to go for the food nowadays. There are several small cafes set up in front of the shops that sell several Ecuadorian favorites like tamales, humitas, quimbolitos, coffee, and hot chocolate. There is a small park at the end of the street that showcases a beautiful statue which pays tribute to the neighborhood's heritage. I've thoroughly enjoyed my time in Cuenca, and I can already see myself coming back for another visit in the future. It has so much to offer anyone who is traveling independently or with spouses and families. Please comment or message me if I can help you plan a trip to the beautiful city of Cuenca!
I wanted to share my journey with ayahuasca and San Pedro for a few important reasons. The first big reason is that I very strongly believe that there are answers to our questions that we can't find using what many people would call "traditional" methods. There are also some things that can't be healed with modern Western medicine. These are the opinions of someone who is not a trained medical or psychological professional; however, I still believe them wholeheartedly. I did record a short video and posted it on my Facebook page which some of you have already seen. Really, though, that was just a sliver of what I actually went through, and I wanted to go into more details, especially since a few of you had more questions after watching the video. Another reason I went through this is because I felt that I was meant to. If you ever do research on ayahuasca and listen to or watch people's personal accounts, you'll often hear that people say something to the effect of, "I was called to it." It was no different for me. I'll delve into that a little more shortly. Yet another reason I wanted to go through this process is that there are stigmas out there surrounding mental heath issues and alternative medicine. If I can talk about my issues and the things I'm trying to help overcome those issues, then maybe I can help heal someone or inspire someone else to do the same for themselves. Finally, I signed up for the ayahuasca retreat because I needed help. How did I decide on Ayahuasca/San Pedro? My ayahuasca journey started well before August 11, 2018. A few years ago, I started developing an interest in shamanism and attended a few workshops just to learn more about it. I was fascinated by how long it has existed in human history, and to this day, still continues to heal indigenous people and provide wisdom for those who seek it. While I was traveling in Australia, I woke up one morning and saw one of the most magnificent sunrises I'd ever seen. I stayed awake long enough to watch the sun rise completely, then fell back asleep. During that sleep, I had a dream that I went to South America. That dream was so vivid and I have never forgotten it. I take my dreams fairly seriously, so I interpreted this as a sign of what was to come in the future. Not long after I decided to go to South America, I started reading blogs by a professional travel blogger who goes by The Professional Hobo. Initially, I'd started reading her blogs since she is a very successful digital nomad who has been able to sustain her traveling lifestyle for many years. Then, I found her blog posts on ayahuasca and San Pedro. She mentioned participating in a retreat at a place called Gaia Sagrada, and she even stayed after her retreat to volunteer for a while. I knew immediately in my gut that that was where I was going to go. Since beginning my nomadic lifestyle, I've worked on becoming more transparent about my struggles and I have mentioned these struggles in a few of my blog posts. One thing I want to make clear is that choosing to uproot my life and live out in the world did not cause all my problems to vanish. Certainly, I've been gifted some extraordinary experiences which have given me perspective and heaps of gratitude. Yet, the voices remain. Those little monsters that live inside my head still talk to me every day and still remind me about everything I'm not. They don't give up easily. Thankfully, neither do I. But it gets very exhausting and defeating when you go through the same vicious cycles over and over again. I also struggle with the symptoms of PCOS. For anyone who may not know, PCOS is Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome. It's an endocrine disorder that may affect between 10-20% of women who are in their childbearing years. Many women are unable to conceive because of it. Sadly, many women go undiagnosed, or are misdiagnosed. I started experiencing symptoms in my late teens and wasn't properly diagnosed until my mid-30s. It was for all of these reasons that I signed up for my first ayahuasca retreat. Why Gaia Sagrada? In addition to reading the blogs by The Professional Hobo, I did a LOT of research on ayahuasca and this particular retreat. Everything I'd read about Gaia Sagrada was positive. I couldn't find a single negative review. Ayahuasca is something one needs to take very, very seriously. It does have a negative reputation on some web sites and in some circles. And yes, there have been deaths that have occurred during ayahuasca retreats. So, it's not something you want to just willy-nilly buy off some random street salesperson in Peru. You really need to make sure it's done the right way by experienced shamans. Gaia Sagrada had exactly that to offer. Now that I've completed the retreat, I can absolutely recommend that anyone who wants to do an ayahuasca/San Pedro retreat seriously consider Gaia Sagrada. Yes, you will find cheaper options out there. But, remember what I said about taking this seriously. You do get what you pay for. I was willing to pay a higher price for the near-guarantee of my health and safety. Not only that, but the staff at the retreat was second to none. They hire work exchangers in addition to their regular staff and experienced shamans. All of the exchangers were polite, friendly, positive, hard-working, supportive - everything you need when you're going through the emotionally and physically challenging process of an ayahuasca or San Pedro ceremony. I was in great hands. What's it like to be on ayahuasca? Do you throw up a lot?! The ayahuasca "brew" is comprised of two plants - one that contains the naturally-occurring chemical DMT, and another plant that contains MAOIs. The MAOIs help prevent the breakdown of DMT in your stomach, and therefore, allow the DMT to be absorbed into your body, which gives people the visual and "trippy" experiences that are often reported with ayahuasca. The brew affects every person differently. Many people do throw up, yes. This is called a "purge" and is actually encouraged during the ceremony since it means that the medicine is working. During my retreat, some people purged within minutes of taking the brew. I didn't purge until the very end of my journey. Some people don't throw up but might have to take a number 2 in the toilet, or maybe cry a lot, or maybe yawn or even laugh. Everyone reacts differently. After taking the brew, the journey can last several hours so it's important to remain in a very safe place, preferably under supervision by experienced shamans. At Gaia Sagrada, the work exchangers help people get up and walk to the toilet if they need to go, or provide them with tissues, extra blankets, etc. so that everyone is as comfortable as possible. What's it like to be on San Pedro? San Pedro is a waaaaay different experience than ayahuasca. It's referred to as a masculine energy, whereas ayahuasca is feminine. My experience with San Pedro was a very calming, reassuring, heart-opening one. I felt like a version of my best self; someone who loves easily and freely without bias, prejudice, fear of rejection, or any obstacles that could prevent someone from loving unconditionally. I was much more forgiving of myself, and more vulnerable in sharing my pain and fears with others at the ceremony. Normally, I'm a very reserved person when it comes to my fears and my pain, but San Pedro allowed me to be open, honest, forgiving, and empathetic with myself and with everyone else who was sharing their own pain and fear. It was a really beautiful experience, in my opinion. Additionally, you don't have the same physical side effects that you have with ayahuasca. In other words, no purging. But, we generally had to start San Pedro in the morning because it keeps you awake for quite a while and can make you jittery and twitchy if you take too much. What was YOUR ayahuasca ceremony like, Charity? I took ayahuasca twice, and San Pedro three times. San Pedro had the same effect on me every time. It was fairly predictable. Ayahuasca was definitely the wild card for me. The first time I took ayahuasca, it felt like nothing was happening. I kept waiting for all the magical visions and profound messages that I'd heard everyone was supposed to get, yet nothing happened. What I *did* get was annoyed, agitated, impatient, and really tired. Not the experience I had signed up for. I just remember thinking how I wish I could just leave the circle, go back to my room, and go to sleep. I was over it! I did purge, though, which was interesting considering it felt like nothing happened. The second ceremony kicked my ass. I definitely got everything "I signed up for" and more. I won't share every single detail, because a) some of it is very personal and not something I want to share on the entire worldwide web, and b) the shaman says that oversharing can actually dilute your experience, so it's best to keep some things to yourself. What I will share is that I did see "Mother Ayahuasca" as she is often called. She took on several different forms, actually, but I always knew it was her. During the beginning the ceremony, when the medicine finally kicked in, I was lying on what felt like an operating table and she was examining me. Examining my brain, really. While she was doing this, in one split second, I made eye contact with her, and it was like a jolt of electricity coursed through my body. While you're under the influence of the medicine, you're still able to communicate with "her" and ask her questions, etc. I asked her why she had not shown up the first night of the ceremony, and she responded, "Oh, I was knocking, but you wouldn't let me in." Fair enough. I was definitely nervous and probably blocked anything from happening because of my own need to control. There was a part of the journey that turned very dark. During that phase, everyone and everything became very distorted. The work exchangers looked like demons. Even the fire looked demonic. I was becoming terrified and I asked Ayahuasca to go easy on me. It was during that phase that some dark things were revealed to me about my past. As disturbing as it was, and still is, it made total and complete sense to me. It was as if I knew the truth was there this whole time but I was refusing to ever acknowledge it. It's very difficult to explain. During that time, Ayahuasca was very comforting to me and didn't let me see more than I could handle. She took it easy on me, I think. She told me that the reason I purged the first time was because she was done trying to work with me; I wasn't allowing it to happen. So, she decided to leave my body. When I purged that 2nd time, she made sure I was ready for her to leave, and she didn't leave until I told her it was okay for her to go. I was only then that I purged. Despite that one negative piece, it was, overall, a really incredible and beautiful experience. I got answers to some of my questions, and others I didn't get answers to, but I feel that there was a good reason for that. And maybe, more will be revealed in time that will make some sense of the messages I received. But I am a Christian/Buddhist/Hindu/Atheist/insert your belief here. How can I also believe all this ayahuasca business?
Let me just say that I completely understand and empathize with this question, because I asked myself exactly the same thing going into the retreat. I don't identify with any particular religion. I do believe in God, and I believe God can take on many different forms. I have had what I would call an on-again, off-again relationship with God that I've struggled to make sense of over the years. It's only been fairly recently that I've felt a shift within my heart and have opened myself up more to have a stronger and healthier relationship with God and to develop the spiritual side of myself. Here is what I believe, and you can make of it anything you wish. I believe that God and Ayahuasca are not mutually exclusive. I believe God's all-encompassing message is one of love. Love each other, love ourselves, love what God has created. Ayahuasca is part of God's creation. Ayahuasca has healed people, not just physically, but emotionally. Spiritually. Mentally. There were people at this retreat, whom I now call my friends, who came from all walks of life and all sorts of traumas and pain and suffering that I still struggle to wrap my head around. Ayahuasca brought all of us together, and healed each of us in ways that were unique to us. During that retreat, we went from being complete strangers to people who LOVE one another as though we were family. We ARE family. We've been talking with each other every day since the retreat, no exaggeration. How is that not an expression of God? How is that not an example of God's love for all of us? If you're struggling to find that bridge between God and something like Ayahuasca, I understand, but I encourage you to find those similarities and find God's message in my experience, or your own experience, or the experiences of others around you. Because I promise, it's there. Please comment with your thoughts, questions, remarks, anything I can do. This post has been a really personal one for me, so I appreciate anyone who has taken the time to read this to the end. I hope all of us finds spiritual fulfillment, regardless of the paths we choose and the methods we employ to find it. Well hey there, everyone! Sheesh, haven't done a very good job of updating my blog, have I? I'll do my best to catch you up and share what I've been up to these past few months. As many of you know, I went home for about a month between late June and early August. I got to spend time with my sister and her family, celebrate my youngest niece's first birthday, and enjoy some quality time with some very special friends of mine. It was really bizarre to be back in the States, at first. I remember getting to my hotel room the evening of my return flight to LAX, collapsing on the bed, and then laughing hysterically because I wasn't expecting the bed to be so soft and it totally caught me off-guard. Sleeping in Southeast Asia for an extended period of time will harden your ass, apparently! I left Omaha on August 6th and flew to Quito. I stayed in Quito for a few days and really enjoyed it. The historical center of the city is really beautiful, and I loved experiencing a brand new culture. The Spanish colonial architecture is charming. I loved seeing the native Ecuadorian women in their traditional clothing, selling fruits, snacks, and other various items along the streets. It was a beautiful introduction to Ecuador. I left Quito to embark on quite another journey - a spiritual one. I participated in an Ayahuasca and San Pedro retreat at a place called Gaia Sagrada, which is about 45 minutes outside of the city of Cuenca, situated in the foothills of the Andes. I recorded a video and posted it to my Facebook page, so I'll spare you all the details in this post, but I do plan to write a separate post at some point in the near future about my experience so be on the lookout for that, if you're interested. After the 12 days at the retreat, I came to Cuenca, where I am currently staying for the next few weeks. I decided to take Spanish classes while I'm here, since I'll be traveling around Spanish-speaking countries for a while, and it's a skill I can certainly use again in the future. The school I chose is called Yanapuma. It's a very short walk from my accommodation. The staff are incredibly friendly and they do a great job of helping the students to feel like part of a family. I underestimated how much Spanish I thought I knew, so it's been a little humbling to say the least, but I'm definitely learning a lot and think I could have a good handle on the language within the next six months or so, as long as I'm consistent with practicing. Nothing like full immersion to help that along! Cuenca is a beautiful little city. It's extremely popular with expats and tourists alike. Lots of retirees are opting to settle here for their golden years. Since it's in the highlands area of the country, the weather is often unpredictable, and it's considerably cooler here than in other parts of the country. Since I've been here, it's been cloudy and chilly nearly every day, and we've gotten a lot of rain. Definitely a stark contrast to the heat and humidity of Southeast Asia! Another thing I completely underestimated was how good the food is here!! Holy cannoli, it's SO good. I had no idea. I'm going to do a whole separate post on the food here, but I'll just say that the almuerzos (lunches) are my absolute favorite meals. And super cheap!! You can get an almuerzo which incudes a soup or salad, main course which is usually served with rice or potato or another hearty side, a drink which is usually some kind of fruit juice (the fresh kind!), and even a dessert, for $2.50-3.50. Insane! And their soups, oh boy. I have enjoyed every single bowl of soup I've had here, and I've yet to eat the same kind of soup twice. The other nice thing about Cuenca is that they have a lot of vegetarian and vegan options. After the Ayahuasca retreat, I was ready to make some healthier eating choices, so that's been really nice. I'll be in Cuenca for about another two and a half weeks, then I'm off to explore a couple of other cities in Ecuador. These places will have MUCH warmer weather and sunnier days, which I'm very much looking forward to, but I can already tell that I'll miss Cuenca a lot when I do leave.
I'll be sure to keep you posted on my upcoming travels, and be sure to be on the lookout for my upcoming posts on Ayahuasca and Ecuadorian food! Thank you, as always, for following along and keeping in touch. xoxo Tell me about your version of paradise. Does your paradise include limestone mountains covered in a thick blanket of vibrant green jungle? Perhaps it includes a lazy river that you hear gently swirling past as you drift off into slumber at night? How about a rustic and breezy bungalow that faces the aforementioned river, where you can sit back with a cold beer in your hand and time seems to slow waaaaayyyy down? Maybe that's not your version of paradise, but it's gotta be pretty damn close. As I was making my way into Laos, I told myself that for a few days, I was going to do NOTHING. Absolutely nothing - no sight-seeing, no planning, no stressing. I needed to decompress, and when I read about Nong Khiaw on other people's blogs and reviews, I figured this would be just the place to do absolutely nothing. And, as it turns out, I was absolutely right. Nong Khiaw is definitely more popular with backpackers now than it was maybe 5-6 years ago, as is evident in the number of guesthouses, tour vendors, and restaurants with English signage. However, since I paid a visit during rainy season, which is the 'off' season for tourism, I had the luxury of having relatively few other tourists to share the village with. To get to Nong Khiaw from Luang Prabang, you have a couple of options - by road or by boat & road. The boat option that gets advertised by local tour companies is a bit misleading because there have been dams built along the river within the past few years. I believe they take you up to the dam and then you have to ride by van the rest of the way. I opted for the easier and quicker method of going by minivan which costs 60-70,000 kip each way (about $7-8). You'll need to arrange a ride to the Northern bus station in Luang Prabang (yes, there is more than one bus station) and get your ticket. Even though there is a "scheduled" bus departure time, be aware that they often won't leave until the van is full. And, even though they might advertise it as a 3.5 hour ride, you can be almost certainly guaranteed that it will take at least 4-4.5 hours. For my accommodations, I opted to stay at Nong Kiau Riverside. Compared to the other options in the area, it's in a higher budget range, but still quite inexpensive by U.S. standards. For my do-nothing days, I wanted to treat myself to something a little more enjoyable and memorable. Looking back, I wouldn't have chosen to stay anywhere else. It was perfect. The bungalows themselves are surprisingly spacious and have air-conditioning and fans. Honestly, I really only had the A/C on during the warm parts of the afternoon. The remainder of the time, I either had the doors leading out to the balcony open or just used the fans and it was just fine. Speaking of the balcony, this was easily the best part of the bungalow. You're just far enough away from the other bungalows to have some privacy (you know, just in case you prefer to drink beer in your undies, and who doesn't) and an unobstructed view of the Nam Ou River. Opposite the river looms a large limestone mountain that helps block what would have otherwise been a hefty amount of sun. NK Riverside also has an on-site restaurant which is convenient and offers pretty decent Lao food for dinner and a nice breakfast buffet. All-in-all, a really lovely accommodation that I would be more than happy to re-book if I'm ever blessed with an opportunity to return. There isn't a whole lot to do in Nong Khiaw (which was the whole point, for me), but for those who have itchy butts, there are options to do hiking or trekking. There is a viewpoint that takes about 1.5-2 hours to hike to that is supposed to have some awesome views of the village and surrounding landscape. Tiger Trails seems to be a reputable tour company if you want to book a boat ride and then a hike to a couple of nearby waterfalls. What I opted to do, instead, was to take a boat ride up to Muang Ngoi and then kayak back to Nong Khiaw. I booked that through Nong Khiaw Adventure Tours. I felt the price was a bit high at 350,000 kip for the day, but it was still lower than two other places I'd checked first. I'd initially planned on doing two nights in Nong Khiaw and then two nights in Muang Ngoi, but once I got to my bungalow in NK, I scrapped that idea and just decided to do the day trip instead. Muang Ngoi takes about 1-1.5 hours to reach by boat, and by boat is the only way to get there, though I've read somewhere that there is also a very rough dirt road that also gets you to Muang Ngoi from Nong Khiaw if you wanted to chance it with a motorbike. The incredible views along the river are definitely worth the rather cramped seating arrangements on the boat. Muang Ngoi is even smaller than Nong Khiaw, if you can imagine that, but has also begun to see a steady increase of backpackers in recent years that Nong Khiaw is no doubt at least partly responsible for. That being said, you definitely still feel like you are in rural Laos, despite the English signage everywhere. The backpackers who rode on the boat with me on the way up the river dispersed elsewhere, leaving me with pretty much the entire village to myself. I saw only a few other tourists lounging at their guesthouses. I was charmed by all the roosters meandering through the streets, the cackling of a few local women chatting and laughing amongst themselves as they prepared meals, and the joyful squealing of a few children chasing after each other. After roaming the unpaved streets for a bit, I made my way to the other end of the 'main' street to the village's only temple. I had intended to take a few photos and sit in the shade for a little while to cool off and enjoy the surrounding views. As I was getting up to leave, one of the monks came out of a small building and motioned me to come in with him. As I walked in, he motioned me to sit down next to him, in front of a little shrine that had been set up. He had a plastic grocery bag filled with friendship bracelets. He took out a few and tied them around my wrist while saying a blessing. I learned later that this was a wish for good luck and prosperity. I gave him a donation and had a 'conversation' with him and a novice monk who was sitting there, watching all of this. Another monk, probably in his late teens, joined us after a bit, as well. I say 'conversation' because they don't speak much English and I don't speak Lao, but Thai and Lao are very similar languages, and I know a tiny bit of Thai, so we were able to get by on that. It was definitely one of those experiences that keeps me motivated to travel. I'm sure I'm not the first or only person who has had that experience, but it means something different for everyone, and it was special to me. Those monks and I are from very different backgrounds, but we were 'tied' together for a brief moment in time - a connection between different worlds was made. And that is the kind of thing I live (and travel) for. After having some lunch, I decided it was time to hop in the kayak and make my way downriver back to Nong Khiaw. When I am on a kayak, no matter where I am and what river I'm on, I always feel a sense of peace and wonder. I am in my happy place, for sure. I've likened it to "going to church" because to me, being in and amidst nature is a spiritual experience. And really, what better way to get to know the magnificent beauty that northern Laos has to offer than by floating along on one of its vital rivers? The trip back took about 4 hours, including a couple of quick "rest" stops. Along the way, I was treated to scenes of water buffalo lounging in the cool brown water, naked Lao babies having a blast swimming and playing without a care in the world, and stunning views of jagged limestone mountains, adorning misty halos. Without a doubt, I was in heaven. I (reluctantly) left Nong Khiaw feeling refreshed and revived, and with a renewed sense of gratitude for all the glorious gifts the Earth has to offer. Things are a bit difficult and complicated back home right now, and I've found myself succumbing to feelings of frustration, guilt, and despair. Here, I was reminded that there is always balance in the universe, and it's there whether or not I, or we, choose to see it.
I am so thankful that I chose to spend a few days in this part of Laos, and if you find yourself also needing a few do-nothing days, then please consider this my formal recommendation to put Nong Khiaw on your radar. Tourists generally come to Cambodia and spend most or all of their time in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat). While these places do have plenty to offer, I was fortunate to have enough time to explore a few other lesser-known parts of Cambodia, including Battambang. It was a bit of an undertaking getting to Battambang from Kampot. There isn't a direct route; I would have to either take a boat to Sihanoukville and then a bus to Battambang which would have been a very long journey, or go back to Phnom Penh and then out to Battambang. I chose the latter option, thinking it would save me some time and trouble. Welp, turns out the first van I was supposed to board had a breakdown and wasn't able to pick me up. So, I had to take a later van which forced me to cancel my 2nd van from Phnom Penh to Battambang and rebook a new one (no refunds for any of this, by the way). When you travel to SE Asia and need to use the local transportation to get around, you have to add at least an hour to the travel time they advertise online, and expect plenty of stops, and sometimes loud local music along the way. This trip was an example of such things. Grumbling aside, I got to my destination safely which is all that matters. I then got a bit lost trying to find my accommodation, but in the spirit of true Southeast-Asian hospitality, I was assisted by a few guys who were closing up a restaurant. They rode around trying to find the place, called the owner, got directions, and gave me a ride on the back of the motorbike to the hotel, which turns out was literally on the other side of the block. HA! Listen, Google maps was wrong, ok? In any case, I was reminded yet again about the kindness and generosity of the people in this corner of the world. After breakfast the next morning, I saddled up another motorbike rental and headed out to the country to experience my first Battambang tourist attraction: the bamboo train. If tourists make their way to Battambang, it's usually for this reason. Is it the most exciting, thrilling thing to do in Cambodia? Absolutely not. But is it fun? Hell yeah. It is a single train track that is used exclusively by locals for transporting produce, building materials, and of course, tourists. The bottom of the flat is made of bamboo (hence the name), which despite its appearance is very strong and sturdy. The rest of the "train", however, would probably not pass most safety standards. But hey, that's part of the excitement. You get to enjoy a very rickety ride through the countryside, where you'll see plenty of buffalo, rice paddies, farmers out in the fields, and kids riding bikes. If you encounter another "train", then one of you will have to dismantle the train, get it off the track, and let the other one pass before you can keep going. The train operators have to figure out who is going to be the one to dismantle. You will go for maybe 1-2 km then stop to have a "rest" which really means you'll buy some snacks and possibly some souvenirs from some pushy kids in a little shop. I was able to hold my ground and only purchased 4 friendship bracelets and a bottle of green tea. Haha! But, I was able to have a chat with them and let a baby play with my phone that she absolutely didn't want to give back. One of the little girls gave me two parting gifts on the way out (below). So sweet. Again, it's probably not an experience you'd write home about but it was fun and made me feel like a kid again, so what's the harm in that? Afterwards, I headed to the other side of Battambang to visit Wat Ek Phnom. Ek Phnom was built in the 11th century around the same time as Angkor Wat. I'd read other travelers' accounts stating that the Khmer temples around Battambang were a great introduction to Angkor Wat, and now that I've seen both, I'd have to agree, if you don't visit Angkor Wat first. Ek Phnom is in pretty bad shape, but there are still several beautiful stone carvings (called bas-reliefs) found around the premises. A young boy was hanging around walking on top of the stone wall surrounding the temples; he hopped off and offered to give me a tour by saying, "Look! This way!" I figured out not long after that he was going to expect some kind of tip for the "service" he was providing, but I didn't mind since he actually showed me some really neat carvings that I'd missed the first time around. After lunch, I headed southwest of Battambang to Wat Phnom Banan. Banan is another Angkorian ruin that is meant to resemble the Big Daddy itself (Angkor Wat). For a long time, many thought Angkor Wat was built after Banan, but archeological finds indicated the opposite was true, and that Banan was built as a smaller replica. Banan is in much better shape than Ek Phnom, but great care must still be taken in and around the temples. In true form, you must climb over 350 steps to get to the top of the hill where the temples are located. I think I've done enough cardio to justify drinking a few more beers, right? After the first set of steps, I was taking a little break, trying to breathe less-heavily so that people wouldn't think I was going into cardiac arrest, when a couple of girls on a school field trip asked me to pose for a picture. I don't care how drenched in sweat you are, and on the brink of death by cardio, you always say yes to cute kids who want a picture with you! By the time I was finished checking out Wat Banan, it started raining pretty heavily. I took shelter in one of the temples for a while until I got impatient and decided to get going. My next stop was Phnom Sampov, about 12 km from Wat Banan. It was a very muddy, pothole-filled ride in the countryside to get there. Sampov is a rather large limestone hill in the middle of the countryside that houses a killing cave used by the Khmer Rouge, a Buddhist temple, and another cave that is home to thousands of bats that make an appearance each evening around 5:30-6pm. The killing cave was yet another reminder of the horrors inflicted by the Khmer Rouge. At the bottom of the cave stands a shrine and a reclining Buddha in memory of those who were slain here. A large class case encloses hundreds of human skulls and bones. It's difficult to imagine what went on here, and even more difficult to try to understand the reasons why which had absolutely no merit. The temple near the cave is ok to look at, but nothing striking compared to other temples in the area. It does, however, boast some nice views of the surrounding rice paddies and villages. Getting up to the top of the hill was a bit of fun - I was advised by the guy who rented me the motorbike that I shouldn't attempt to ride it up the hill. I think he was probably more concerned for the welfare of the bike, but I didn't take my chances and decided instead to hire a local to drive me up in an open-top jeep. It was a unique experience, enhanced by the speed with which he drove over the potholes on the road leading up the hill! He made up for any discomfort by offering me a free can of beer, though, which was later stolen by macaques. I had a fantastic and memorable time in Battambang, and would certainly recommend it to anyone who is looking to experience something beyond the usual Angkor Wat/Phnom Penh route. The countryside is beautiful; the temples are intriguing; the people are warm and laid-back.
Thank you for taking time to read about my experience in Battambang! I'm not exaggerating when I say that I fell in love with Kampot as soon as I arrived. Okay, yes, I may have said that about other places I've visited, too; fair enough. But there was something about Kampot that just gave me a giddy-schoolgirl-with-a-crush feeling, and I enjoyed every bit of it. Kampot is roughly 3 hours by bus southwest of Phnom Penh. It is situated along the Preaek Tuek Chhu River (How do you pronounce that? Great question. No idea.) which flows into the Gulf of Thailand just a bit further south. The area is well-known for its salt fields, its world-famous Kampot pepper, and it is apparently the durian capital of Cambodia. Durian, for those who may be unaware, is an extremely popular fruit in Southeast Asia. It is dubbed "The King of Fruits" likely due to its enormous size and freakishly spiky exterior. The Chinese especially love it and have been importing it as if it were going extinct. Or, perhaps I should say "ex-stinkt" because it is also, after all, the world's smelliest fruit. If you've ever been stuck behind a garbage truck on a hot, humid day for any length of time, then you know what durian smells like. It was a bit rainy when I arrived in the afternoon, so I decided to take it easy and have some coffee at Epic Arts Café - highly recommend this place, by the way - and I'd read about a little cinema that showed Cambodia-related movies nearly every day of the week at 4pm, so I thought I would check it out. I was pleased to find out that they were showing The Killing Fields that day, so I bought a ticket and made myself comfortable in the living room-like set-up. I had wanted to see this movie after visiting the related monuments in Phnom Penh, but it's an older flick that's not as easy to find on Netflix, etc. Despite it being cringingly-dated in some parts, the movie was great and nicely encapsulated my Khmer Rouge learning experience. If you ever find yourself in Kampot on a rainy day, check out Ecran Theater. The next day, I rented a motorbike through my guesthouse and headed out to Bokor National Park which takes about an hour to go through. The ride up through the mountains was breathtaking, with occasional breaks in the trees and foliage to see beautiful views of Kampot, the mountains, and the Gulf of Thailand in some spots. Everything was going great until I got very nearly to the top of the mountain where one would ordinarily find the Bokor Hill Station, Bokor Church, and a Buddhist temple. These were my intended destinations. I noticed the skies were darker at the top and there was a sweeping cloud of mist which I found to be very intriguing. I wasn't quite putting it together that the sky was trying to warn me that it was about to attack in full force. And attack, it surely did. I am LOL'ing right now as I'm typing this, but let me assure you that I was not amused as I was trying to navigate my way back down the mountain with glass shards of rain attacking my face and body. Visibility was awful, even with my headlights on. There was no face guard on the cheap shitty helmet I got with the motorbike, so rain daggers were assaulting my eyeballs, making it even more difficult to see anything. The wind gusts nearly knocked me off the bike a couple of times. Anyone who was unlucky enough to be in the same vicinity as me in that period of time would have likely heard me yelling, "OWW! OWWWW!" as I was struggling to escape. And it did NOT stop for what felt like hours (probably about 20 minutes in reality), so it went on like this for nearly the entire descent back down the mountain. Needless to say, I was soaked, and when it finally broke and I caught a glance of myself in a mirror, my eyes were bright bloody red as though I'd just come off a two-week bender. So, my advice to you is, if you decide you want to check out Bokor National Park, please only do so when there are virtually no clouds in the sky. Otherwise, you might die. The end. The next day, I took a day trip over to the Kep area (also spelled Kaeb) which is famous for the Kep Crab Market along the gulf shore. Back in its heyday, Kep was holiday resort central for the French and elite members of society until the Khmer Rouge regime of the 70s. Much of it was destroyed during this time, mostly from locals stripping away materials to sell in exchange for food or other supplies. Not much is left in Kep to give any indication of its former glory, but it is still a lovely, relaxed town with enough to keep you busy for a day trip, if you have a hard time relaxing like I do. Today, the areas surrounding Kep are filled with salt fields and rice paddies. You can find several places that rent out bungalows for the day, where you can bring a picnic and drinks or just choose to chill out in a hammock and enjoy the sight and smell of the sea. While I was in town, I checked out the local temple, Wat Samathi. The temple is located right on the outskirts of town and along the border of Kep National Park. As with many Buddhist temples in this part of the world, you have to earn your merit by climbing up a long series of steps to reach the temple. But, the views are really nice, so once again it's worth the extra cardio! And, you really aren't allowed to leave Kep until you've at least stopped by the Crab Market. If you're expecting to find anything clean, organized, and slightly pretentious like the Pike Place Market in Seattle, for example, you will be disappointed. It's typical of any other seafood or meat market in SE Asia, except the focus is on the crab. If you're a big seafood lover (I'm not), you can treat yourself by buying crabs on the spot after they've just been scooped out of the sea and have them cooked right then and there for you. You'll likely be eating them prepared with the famous and delicious Kampot green pepper, a true local signature dish. If you're not a seafood lover, but have an appetite, you'll be pleased to find other munchable items like fresh fruit, various kinds of barbecued meat on sticks, dried fruit and nuts, etc. Or, you can buy some t-shirts, jewelry, or other souvenirs. Just remember that you're in SE Asia and you need to haggle the price. I was happy to just walk around and people watch, and enjoy some freshly...um...squeezed? sugarcane juice. Back in Kampot, I paid a visit to a place called Farmlink, which I had read about in another traveler's blog. Farmlink is a Fair Trade partnership of sorts that focuses on sustainable farming practices and protection of local farmers. Here, they also help process Kampot pepper by drying it and separating out the high-quality peppercorns for export and local trade. They use the less-quality peppercorns in local restaurants, but the less-quality has more to do with appearance than flavor. I was given a mini-tour of the facility and was allowed to sample the red, white, and green peppercorns. They also sell Fleur de sel and palm sugar, all produced locally. I bought some peppercorns and salt for a couple of my foodie friends back home. I certainly don't claim to have a developed-enough palate to taste much difference in the peppercorns, but they all had good flavor as far as I could tell! I capped off my stay in Kampot by taking a $3 evening cruise of the river, price including a free beer. They could have just said, "Hey, follow me! Free beer!" and I would have happily gone along, but the cruise was a nice extra perk. They advertise it as a "Firefly Cruise" because there are a couple spots along the river where you can see some "lightning bugs", as we call them back home. Seeing a few fireflies didn't really impress me since I have seen much more impressive displays growing up in the Midwest, but I will admit that seeing them did make me miss summer nights back home. Awww.
I had a wonderful time exploring this part of Cambodia. It was a welcome change from the fast pace of the two cities I had visited prior. I could easily see myself going back to Kampot down the road, maybe setting myself up as a digital nomad for a month or two. We shall see what the future holds. |
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AuthorHi! I'm Charity. I'm from Omaha, Nebraska, USA. I quit my job in October 2016 to travel the world. Archives
June 2022
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