Just go, C!
I'm Charity, a proud auntie, wine lover, semi-nerd, and dreamer who can't stay in one place for too long.
History enthusiasts would have an absolute field day exploring the city of Hue, Vietnam. Hue is situated along the central coast of Vietnam, and initially rose to fame as the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty which ruled much of central and southern Vietnam for about 150 years between the 17th and 19th centuries. Hue later became well-known to the rest of the world as the site of one of the most devastating battles of the Vietnam War during the Tet Offensive of 1968. Knowing there were several places I wanted to visit during my stay in Hue, I hired a private motorbike taxi driver through my guesthouse to take me around the city for the day. (For those interested, I paid 500k VND, or about $22, for a full day of transport, which included lunch, fuel, and a tip for the driver. It did not include entrance fees to the various sites.) In hindsight, I probably paid a bit more than average for what I got. I would have been willing to pay more to have someone give me some historical narrative behind the places I was visiting, but due to language barriers at my guesthouse, I wasn't able to properly communicate what I really wanted. Oh well. Speaking of entrance fees, for anyone who might be planning a trip: You can opt to pay on a per-attraction basis, or what I did is pay 360k VND for a pass that grants access for up to four sites which includes the Imperial Palace, Minh Mang tomb, Tu Duc tomb, and Khai Dinh tomb. Visiting those four sites plus a free visit to the Thien Mu Pagoda as suggested by my moto-taxi driver took the full day for me, so if you are thinking about doing the same thing, this is probably the best way to go. They also have a 3-site pass for 280k VND, just FYI. You can purchase either of these passes at any of the entrances to the main sites. My first stop was the Khai Dinh tomb. I remember us pulling up on the bike and feeling that wonderful, fluttery, "this is gonna be awesome" excitement when I took my first look at the place. Khai Dinh was the 12th emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty. He was the first Vietnamese monarch to visit Europe, and he developed a special affinity and admiration for France. His political philosophies strongly reflected this, much to the chagrin of the Vietnamese people, who saw his interest in the French ways as a betrayal to the people of Vietnam. Many blew him off as another spoiled, rich monarch. Most likely, he was just ahead of his time and his ideas just weren't ready to be received by a very stubborn population. However, it would seem that Emperor Khai Dinh had the final laugh as is evident in the construction of his tomb. The emperors of that time would plan and construct their tombs while they were still alive. Khai Dinh used mainly French materials during the construction, and he took care to ensure that people would have to work to pay their respects by carving the tomb site into the side of a mountain and building well over 100 steps to reach it. And as what would seem like a final "F you" to the naysayers, he designed the tomb itself to be a spectacular fanfare of porcelain and glass displays, complete with a majestic bronze statue of the emperor himself, which was cast in France. Khai Dinh actually passed away from tuberculosis while the tomb was still under construction, so his son finished the job and the result is jaw-droppingly beautiful. The next stop on the tour was the tomb of Minh Mang. Minh Mang was the 2nd ruler of the Nguyen dynasty, his reign lasting from 1820-1841. Like his father, Minh Mang was a strict conservative Confucian who described Christianity as "perverse" and "corrupt". He had several Christian missionaries executed during his reign. He was also a staunch isolationist, opposing any kind of European involvement in Vietnam, keeping a wary side-eye on France, who renewed their interest in Vietnam following the Napoleonic Wars. In stark contrast to his rigid character, the tomb grounds he chose are quite lovely and peaceful, surrounded by lots of trees and small ponds. He requested several pavilions to be constructed, each with a special purpose in mind, like fishing, reading books, and even just getting some fresh air. Next, we visited the tomb of Tu Duc, otherwise known as the Khiem Tomb. Tu Duc was the fourth emperor of the Nguyen dynasty, and he also claims the longest reign of all thirteen Nguyen emperors at 36 years. Tu Duc rise to the throne is an interesting story. His eldest brother was supposed to become the emperor following his father's death, but his father instead had the law of succession changed while he was alive so that he could choose his successor. His father felt that Tu Duc would be better suited to keeping strict Confucianism alive and well, and would be better adept at keeping foreign powers at bay. This choice actually angered many of the strict Confucian leaders, as well as the eldest son, understandably so. Rebellions ensued, but were quickly suppressed and the eldest brother, Hong Dao, was arrested and tried for treason. His mother intervened which prevented his punishment, but Hong Dao committed suicide while imprisoned nonetheless. Ironically, it was Tu Duc's opposition to Christianity that beckoned France under the guise of "intervention" and ultimately led to the invasion and colonization by France. The Vietnamese laud this tomb as a romantic second Imperial City of sorts, as a nod to the "poetic" nature of Tu Duc. After a delicious lunch, the driver took me to the Thien Mu Pagoda, recommending highly that it was worth a visit. And I have to admit, he was right. The pagoda itself is remarkable with a nice view of the Perfume River from the top of the steps. What was also very enjoyable was walking around the grounds behind the pagoda. I also didn't realize, but later discovered, that this place houses the car that was driven by Thich Quang Duc, the Buddhist monk who martyred himself by setting himself on fire in a busy Saigon intersection in 1963. This was the car he drove to Saigon. Our final stop for the day was the Imperial City itself, also known as the Citadel. If you look at Hue on Google maps, you'll see various square-shaped water canals marking off the Citadel, which encloses the Imperial City. The Imperial City was home to the emperors of the Nguyen dynasty and was the political, cultural, and religious epicenter of Vietnam during Hue's capital period. You can't go through the main entrance without passing by and noticing the massive Flag Tower, which is a three-tiered structure proudly waving the nation's flag, flanked by cannons. It's quite intimidating with a thunderstorm brewing in the background. The Imperial City of Hue is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it's bound to be a fascinating exploration for anyone with an interest in Vietnamese history, or in Vietnam War history. You could easily spend hours wandering through the various pavilions, temples, hallways and corridors, exploring nooks and crannies. It's hard to believe that relentless battle occurred on this site not all that long ago. Hue was incredibly vulnerable during the Tet Offensive due to its location only about 50 km from the DMZ and its purpose as a U.S. Navy supplies base. Local officials pleaded with the U.S. Marines to hold off on any kind of destruction of the Imperial City due to its significant historical importance to the Vietnamese. However, the fighting and losses became too intense and the Americans had no choice but to fight back. Restoration efforts have obviously paid off, with very little indication that bloody battles were fought here, other than an occasional ruin and the bullet holes you can still see in the walls of the Citadel, and the eerie feeling I experienced by just being there, most likely fueled by the looming thunderstorm nearby. I believe a visit to the Imperial City is important to understand Hue's (and Vietnam's) long and storied history. While the locals seem more focused on the future of their country, foreigners and other visitors could benefit greatly by learning about the rulers of the distant past and the hard-fought battles of the not-so-distant past.
I really enjoyed spending time in Hue to learn more about this city's very important role in Vietnamese history, and indeed in American history, as well. Thank you for taking time to read more about my journey and some of what I learned during my time here!
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There's nothing quite like experiencing a brand new country to help you recover from the depression of leaving one you adored. (I guess you could say that Myanmar is my "rebound" country...?) Yangon (formerly Rangoon) has exceeded my expectations in many ways and it's been a great way to get my feet wet in the rapidly-developing country of Myanmar! Myanmar, formerly known as Burma until 1989, has had a very rough go at opening up to tourists. It has really only done so within the last decade. And even then, tourists haven't flocked, but have increasingly trickled in. And now, after the ethically-controversial actions of Buddhist extremists in the Rakhine State against the Rohingya people, many are either afraid of traveling here or refuse to do so with the concern that they will somehow be supporting the actions of the extremists, and supporting a government that has not taken swift and strong action against the extremists. I, too, struggled with the decision to travel here, but was pleased to learn from the accounts of others that the majority of the economic benefits of tourism were granted to the local people versus the government. Not only that, but the Burmese have been largely isolated from foreigners for decades, and I believe that tourists can provide the Burmese a lot to learn about people from other countries (and we have much to learn from them, as well, I can assure you). I have to admit that this infancy of tourism has only added to the magic I've experienced thus far. This has been an optimal time to visit, as tourists will undoubtedly continue to trickle in and the country will have to change to accommodate it. If you're ever fortunate enough to travel to Myanmar in the coming years, here is a description of some of the things I was able to see and do (and eat) while I was here, perhaps to give you some inspiration! Shwedagon Pagoda You will see this on every "must do" list for Yangon and I am not going to argue with the majority on this one. I hate telling people they "must do" something when they travel somewhere, but you know what? You have to visit this place. There are plenty of reasons why, if seeing the pictures isn't enough for you. The first is that it may be one of the oldest Buddhist pagodas in the world at over 2,500 years old (this hasn't been 100% confirmed, though). The second is that it houses a very important Buddha hair relic. The third is that it is coated with OVER 60 TONS of pure gold. It's the most important Buddhist site to the Burmese. I caught my first glimpse of Shwedagon as I was in a taxi on the way to my hostel from the airport, and this was at night. The pagoda just towered over the city and glistened in pure magical golden glory. I was floored seeing it from a distance, so you can only imagine how it was to see it up close and personal. The best way to see the pagoda, in my opinion, is to watch it transition from late afternoon to night. I arrived around 4:30 pm, walked around and watched the many Buddhist worshippers and monks make their merit. As the sun fell, the pastels in the sky became a beautiful backdrop for the increasingly-glowing pagoda. And at night, the pagoda takes on a brilliant personality that simply cannot be missed. You can also witness monks lighting hundreds of candles at the base of the pagoda which is simply beautiful to observe. Chauk Htat Kyi Pagoda and the Reclining Buddha This is a very well-known Buddha among the Burmese, and also one of the largest reclining Buddhas in the world. I thought the feet of the Buddha were the most interesting, with many different symbols and scenes depicting scenes from Buddha's life or Buddhist principles. And I must say, this Buddha looks rather "fabulous" to me. Also, it's worth a visit to another Buddha across the street from here - the Ngar Htat Gyi Pagoda. Unfortunately, the Buddha was under repair and surrounded by scaffolding when I visited, but I think under normal circumstances would be a very impressive Buddha to see. The Yangon Circular Train If you want to see how the Burmese in the area really live, there is no better opportunity to do so than by taking the circular train from Yangon Central Railway Station. The Station by itself is worth a visit as it is a very interesting piece of architecture, though it could certainly do with a facelift. The price of the ride is only 200 kyat as of now which is only 15-20 cents in USD. The ride is 3 hours long, which feels a bit much at times, but you can always hop off at any of the stations and take a taxi or a Grab if you feel so inclined. I opted to wait it out. During the ride, you'll watch several food and snack vendors hop on and off, offering fresh fruit, drinks, and popular Burmese snacks to the passengers. It's fascinating to watch them balance their trays and baskets on their heads while trying to maintain their composure during the bumpy train ride. Along the way, you'll see things that will warm your heart, as well as things that you may struggle with. The best part for me was all the kids waving at the train as it passed by, and as soon as they see a foreigner, their interest level piques and they will shout "hello!" or "hi!" to you while waving frantically. You'll see many kids laughing and playing, seemingly unbothered by their extremely minimal shelters and possessions. These Burmese live a very simple life. The more disturbing side is seeing all of the trash and pollution. This is unfortunately an all-too-common reality in SE Asia. There is a lot of cleaning up to do and not a lot of initiative to make it happen. You see barefoot children carrying baskets, walking on top of the mounds of garbage. Kids will play in the trash and swim in the filthy ponds and streams. This acceptance and adaptation is only making the problem worse, in my opinion. On the train, expect to be stared at by nearly everyone. Some people are better at hiding their curiosity than others, but there will definitely be glances and looks in your direction. I never got the sense that I was intruding, though. They just carried on with their business, chatting with other locals, hauling their produce and wares off and on the train, or perhaps catching a snooze. It's worth the glimpse into the daily life, in my opinion. Be aware that this is not an air-conditioned train and it gets very, very hot here, so plan accordingly and bring plenty of water with you. Sule Pagoda If your accommodation is somewhere in the central Yangon area, you're most likely within a short distance of Sule Pagoda, and it's certainly worth a visit, especially considering its history and significance. When the British reconstructed Yangon back in the late 19th century, they used Sule Pagoda as the centerpoint from which to design the rest of the city. Sule Pagoda has been a central gathering place for many protests and rebellions throughout Burma's history. It also houses important Buddha relics. It costs USD$2 to enter and a leisurely stroll through will take maybe an hour. While you're there, you can also scope out some of the interesting architecture in the surrounding area, including the City Hall which is just across the street. British colonial and Art Deco styles can also be found within a short walking distance. Kandawgyi Lake If you need a break from the noisy hustle and bustle of Yangon, then consider a nice evening stroll through the Kandawgyi Lake area. The artificial lake was constructed by the British and channels water from Inya Lake to the north. There is a really lovely boardwalk that goes around the lake, and is generally easy to navigate. You'll also find plenty of little cafes and restaurants if you work up an appetite. **Super awesome sorta secret tip**: For sunset, make your way over to the Esperado Hotel on the southeastern side of the lake, across Kan Yeik Tha Road. There is a rooftop bar on the 9th floor which was virtually empty when I was there, and you can enjoy a glorious sunset view of the lake and Shwedagon Pagoda. The service was pretty slow but the views made up for it! Where to eat and drink Ah, yes. Here we are at the most important part - the eating part. Seeing as how my stomach is also quite the tourist, I sampled a nice array of dishes and drinks during my time in Yangon. I was able to stay mostly vegetarian or vegan, as well. Rangoon Tea House This is a very popular sit-in restaurant with the foreigners, but it still features classic Burmese and Indian dishes that any local would respect. As the name suggests, they are also well-known for the varieties of tea on offer. The menu lists various ways to order your tea from not sweet at all up to very sweet. They use sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk to varying degrees depending on your order. It's not something I could drink every day, but fun to try! I also recommend the samosa salad and the pickled tea leaf salad. 999 Shan Noodle Shop The Burmese love their noodles and this is possibly the best place to go in Yangon to get your slurp on. It's a small, cramped restaurant so it's best to get there during "off" times if you can manage. It's got a surprisingly extensive menu. I tried the tofu noodles with their house-made chickpea tofu and it was delicious. Lucky 7 Tea House (49th Street) It's not big and it's not air-conditioned, but you get to sample to the tea-drinking culture that is a huge part of the lives of the Burmese. You can't walk down any street, it seems, without seeing little tea stands dotted here and there. This place is a great introduction to that tea culture. They have a menu in English, but be aware that they don't list the prices on the menu. But fret not; I ordered parata (sweet bread) and their signature Lucky 7 tea and only paid 1000 kyat (75 cents). 50th Street Café and Restaurant Sometimes you wanna go where everybody knows your name. Or, at least where you will be in the company of other foreigners and expats. 50th Street is a popular hangout for the expat community and they feature several Western dishes for anyone needing a fix. They also have a happy hour from 3pm to 8 pm daily, and every night they host a new activity (it was pub quiz night when I was there!) so it's a great way to meet other people. If you've run out of things to do, Yangon is a great city to explore by foot. Some of my favorite moments in the city entailed just walking down the streets, watching the locals at work in the fruit & vegetable markets or in their small family-owned shops. There are so many sights, smells, textures, and sounds to be experienced by wandering the streets. And it doesn't cost anything! To get around otherwise, Grab (a taxi hailing app similar to Uber) is a popular and cheap option with most rides costing around USD$1.50-$2 each way. You'll see (and hear) taxis everywhere, just make sure to agree on a price before you ride. What do you think, does Yangon seem like a place you'd like to visit? Let me know! Thanks for reading! |
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AuthorHi! I'm Charity. I'm from Omaha, Nebraska, USA. I quit my job in October 2016 to travel the world. Archives
June 2022
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