Just go, C!
I'm Charity, a proud auntie, wine lover, semi-nerd, and dreamer who can't stay in one place for too long.
There's nothing quite like experiencing a brand new country to help you recover from the depression of leaving one you adored. (I guess you could say that Myanmar is my "rebound" country...?) Yangon (formerly Rangoon) has exceeded my expectations in many ways and it's been a great way to get my feet wet in the rapidly-developing country of Myanmar! Myanmar, formerly known as Burma until 1989, has had a very rough go at opening up to tourists. It has really only done so within the last decade. And even then, tourists haven't flocked, but have increasingly trickled in. And now, after the ethically-controversial actions of Buddhist extremists in the Rakhine State against the Rohingya people, many are either afraid of traveling here or refuse to do so with the concern that they will somehow be supporting the actions of the extremists, and supporting a government that has not taken swift and strong action against the extremists. I, too, struggled with the decision to travel here, but was pleased to learn from the accounts of others that the majority of the economic benefits of tourism were granted to the local people versus the government. Not only that, but the Burmese have been largely isolated from foreigners for decades, and I believe that tourists can provide the Burmese a lot to learn about people from other countries (and we have much to learn from them, as well, I can assure you). I have to admit that this infancy of tourism has only added to the magic I've experienced thus far. This has been an optimal time to visit, as tourists will undoubtedly continue to trickle in and the country will have to change to accommodate it. If you're ever fortunate enough to travel to Myanmar in the coming years, here is a description of some of the things I was able to see and do (and eat) while I was here, perhaps to give you some inspiration! Shwedagon Pagoda You will see this on every "must do" list for Yangon and I am not going to argue with the majority on this one. I hate telling people they "must do" something when they travel somewhere, but you know what? You have to visit this place. There are plenty of reasons why, if seeing the pictures isn't enough for you. The first is that it may be one of the oldest Buddhist pagodas in the world at over 2,500 years old (this hasn't been 100% confirmed, though). The second is that it houses a very important Buddha hair relic. The third is that it is coated with OVER 60 TONS of pure gold. It's the most important Buddhist site to the Burmese. I caught my first glimpse of Shwedagon as I was in a taxi on the way to my hostel from the airport, and this was at night. The pagoda just towered over the city and glistened in pure magical golden glory. I was floored seeing it from a distance, so you can only imagine how it was to see it up close and personal. The best way to see the pagoda, in my opinion, is to watch it transition from late afternoon to night. I arrived around 4:30 pm, walked around and watched the many Buddhist worshippers and monks make their merit. As the sun fell, the pastels in the sky became a beautiful backdrop for the increasingly-glowing pagoda. And at night, the pagoda takes on a brilliant personality that simply cannot be missed. You can also witness monks lighting hundreds of candles at the base of the pagoda which is simply beautiful to observe. Chauk Htat Kyi Pagoda and the Reclining Buddha This is a very well-known Buddha among the Burmese, and also one of the largest reclining Buddhas in the world. I thought the feet of the Buddha were the most interesting, with many different symbols and scenes depicting scenes from Buddha's life or Buddhist principles. And I must say, this Buddha looks rather "fabulous" to me. Also, it's worth a visit to another Buddha across the street from here - the Ngar Htat Gyi Pagoda. Unfortunately, the Buddha was under repair and surrounded by scaffolding when I visited, but I think under normal circumstances would be a very impressive Buddha to see. The Yangon Circular Train If you want to see how the Burmese in the area really live, there is no better opportunity to do so than by taking the circular train from Yangon Central Railway Station. The Station by itself is worth a visit as it is a very interesting piece of architecture, though it could certainly do with a facelift. The price of the ride is only 200 kyat as of now which is only 15-20 cents in USD. The ride is 3 hours long, which feels a bit much at times, but you can always hop off at any of the stations and take a taxi or a Grab if you feel so inclined. I opted to wait it out. During the ride, you'll watch several food and snack vendors hop on and off, offering fresh fruit, drinks, and popular Burmese snacks to the passengers. It's fascinating to watch them balance their trays and baskets on their heads while trying to maintain their composure during the bumpy train ride. Along the way, you'll see things that will warm your heart, as well as things that you may struggle with. The best part for me was all the kids waving at the train as it passed by, and as soon as they see a foreigner, their interest level piques and they will shout "hello!" or "hi!" to you while waving frantically. You'll see many kids laughing and playing, seemingly unbothered by their extremely minimal shelters and possessions. These Burmese live a very simple life. The more disturbing side is seeing all of the trash and pollution. This is unfortunately an all-too-common reality in SE Asia. There is a lot of cleaning up to do and not a lot of initiative to make it happen. You see barefoot children carrying baskets, walking on top of the mounds of garbage. Kids will play in the trash and swim in the filthy ponds and streams. This acceptance and adaptation is only making the problem worse, in my opinion. On the train, expect to be stared at by nearly everyone. Some people are better at hiding their curiosity than others, but there will definitely be glances and looks in your direction. I never got the sense that I was intruding, though. They just carried on with their business, chatting with other locals, hauling their produce and wares off and on the train, or perhaps catching a snooze. It's worth the glimpse into the daily life, in my opinion. Be aware that this is not an air-conditioned train and it gets very, very hot here, so plan accordingly and bring plenty of water with you. Sule Pagoda If your accommodation is somewhere in the central Yangon area, you're most likely within a short distance of Sule Pagoda, and it's certainly worth a visit, especially considering its history and significance. When the British reconstructed Yangon back in the late 19th century, they used Sule Pagoda as the centerpoint from which to design the rest of the city. Sule Pagoda has been a central gathering place for many protests and rebellions throughout Burma's history. It also houses important Buddha relics. It costs USD$2 to enter and a leisurely stroll through will take maybe an hour. While you're there, you can also scope out some of the interesting architecture in the surrounding area, including the City Hall which is just across the street. British colonial and Art Deco styles can also be found within a short walking distance. Kandawgyi Lake If you need a break from the noisy hustle and bustle of Yangon, then consider a nice evening stroll through the Kandawgyi Lake area. The artificial lake was constructed by the British and channels water from Inya Lake to the north. There is a really lovely boardwalk that goes around the lake, and is generally easy to navigate. You'll also find plenty of little cafes and restaurants if you work up an appetite. **Super awesome sorta secret tip**: For sunset, make your way over to the Esperado Hotel on the southeastern side of the lake, across Kan Yeik Tha Road. There is a rooftop bar on the 9th floor which was virtually empty when I was there, and you can enjoy a glorious sunset view of the lake and Shwedagon Pagoda. The service was pretty slow but the views made up for it! Where to eat and drink Ah, yes. Here we are at the most important part - the eating part. Seeing as how my stomach is also quite the tourist, I sampled a nice array of dishes and drinks during my time in Yangon. I was able to stay mostly vegetarian or vegan, as well. Rangoon Tea House This is a very popular sit-in restaurant with the foreigners, but it still features classic Burmese and Indian dishes that any local would respect. As the name suggests, they are also well-known for the varieties of tea on offer. The menu lists various ways to order your tea from not sweet at all up to very sweet. They use sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk to varying degrees depending on your order. It's not something I could drink every day, but fun to try! I also recommend the samosa salad and the pickled tea leaf salad. 999 Shan Noodle Shop The Burmese love their noodles and this is possibly the best place to go in Yangon to get your slurp on. It's a small, cramped restaurant so it's best to get there during "off" times if you can manage. It's got a surprisingly extensive menu. I tried the tofu noodles with their house-made chickpea tofu and it was delicious. Lucky 7 Tea House (49th Street) It's not big and it's not air-conditioned, but you get to sample to the tea-drinking culture that is a huge part of the lives of the Burmese. You can't walk down any street, it seems, without seeing little tea stands dotted here and there. This place is a great introduction to that tea culture. They have a menu in English, but be aware that they don't list the prices on the menu. But fret not; I ordered parata (sweet bread) and their signature Lucky 7 tea and only paid 1000 kyat (75 cents). 50th Street Café and Restaurant Sometimes you wanna go where everybody knows your name. Or, at least where you will be in the company of other foreigners and expats. 50th Street is a popular hangout for the expat community and they feature several Western dishes for anyone needing a fix. They also have a happy hour from 3pm to 8 pm daily, and every night they host a new activity (it was pub quiz night when I was there!) so it's a great way to meet other people. If you've run out of things to do, Yangon is a great city to explore by foot. Some of my favorite moments in the city entailed just walking down the streets, watching the locals at work in the fruit & vegetable markets or in their small family-owned shops. There are so many sights, smells, textures, and sounds to be experienced by wandering the streets. And it doesn't cost anything! To get around otherwise, Grab (a taxi hailing app similar to Uber) is a popular and cheap option with most rides costing around USD$1.50-$2 each way. You'll see (and hear) taxis everywhere, just make sure to agree on a price before you ride. What do you think, does Yangon seem like a place you'd like to visit? Let me know! Thanks for reading!
2 Comments
Peter
6/15/2018 12:08:54 am
You gave me the inspiration to visit Yangon, at the end of July :)
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Charity Crawford
6/15/2018 12:26:27 am
That's great! It's such an interesting city; I have no doubt that you'll enjoy yourself. If I can help answer any questions, please let me know!
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AuthorHi! I'm Charity. I'm from Omaha, Nebraska, USA. I quit my job in October 2016 to travel the world. Archives
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